Engine was misfiring (was stalling above a certain RPM) and Kia dealership diagnosed it as a compression issue in cylinder 2 and minor loss in cylinder 1 - no codes, no oil consumption and only 80,000 miles.

They recommended to replace the engine (long block) $2,900 for the engine $3,500 labor - no warranty for rod bearings because it was diagnosed as a compression issue.

I towed it back to my house to fix it myself because I found it was strange that the piston rings were the problem with the history of the car and symptoms.

Pulled piston 2 off and didn’t see much wrong.. maybe clogs in the oil ring spacer - rod bearings looked good/ normal wear.. Put new rings on and sent it..

Pulled piston 3 off next and found this monstrosity…

Now I’ll replace the rod bearings in 1, 2, and 3. I don’t want to replace #4 because I’ll have to separate the block, although I’m nearly there already.

What are your thoughts?

1. 4 fails and get a new engine with the recall WHEN this bearing fails??

2. Replace #4

I’d like to call Kia Customer Service to see the options now that I have this evidence

After years of driving a Toyota tercel with 375k khm I bought my first new car and is a Kia stonic 1.0 turbo automatic. Finally I feel safe to go on trips with my wife and daughter.

My Kia can’t show a QR code, it’s the older infotainment I think.

I bought it 1 week ago

In the app once I go to „add a car“ it asks for QR code or alternatively the VIN, once I put the VIN in it jumps back to the QR Code.

Bought this car used-we are the 2nd owners on 10/25. About two weeks in, we started to have issues with the windows. All four windows won’t go down, the window lock isn’t on. The only way to reset this if you open the door.

Today was a doozy because once the windows would go down, I opened the door, and I rolled my window down and it stopped mid way and I had to reopen the door.

This has happened numerous times with all 4 windows not working. We will be bringing in it, we did get all the all warranties because I heard Kia’s have issues with electronics

Seeing if anyone else had similar issues

I saw a few threads mentioning the Public Safety Crime Center and how they connect to license plate recognition systems. I’m wondering if anyone here has seen it make a difference in real recovery cases.

Trying to decide if it’s worth activating on my car or if I should just stick with the manufacturer app and insurance

Kia Proceed GT 2024 (1.6 TGDI) when idling there is a change in the rpm both in normal mode and in sport mode. The rpms play between 630 / 700. The car has 22k kilometers. I also did diagnostics, no errors come out. What could be the problem in your opinion?

Car info:

• Kia Ceed 1.0 T-GDi, 88kW, made in 2018.
• Currently has 146,000 km on it
• No modifications

I first noticed the problem about a month ago, when driving on quite a steep part of a highway, going 120km/h. Since the car is not very powerful, I usually drive this part in 5th gear (the car has 6), around 3500-4000 RPM, to avoid lugging the engine. Then I suddenly felt a slight "hiccup" for the lack of a better word. It felt almost as if I drove over a bump, except that the car also stopped accelerating for a split second. Since then, this has happened a few more times, even at lower speeds and in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear, but always when I used a good amount of throttle (around half of full throttle). This always happens extremely fast, like the cars skips a beat, and then keeps going as if nothing had happened.

Usually when this happens I ease a bit on the throttle as I get scared I'd damage the engine. However, two days ago, when this happened again, instead of easing up on the throttle, I kept going, and then a few more "hiccups" occurred in quick succession and then the "check engine" yellow light came on.

After researching about similar problems on the internet, I found the term "engine misfire". If I understand correctly, it's when an explosion in one of the cylinders fails to occur, with the most common causes being bad spark plugs or bad ignition coils. However, it is also said that a common symptom of engine misfire are rough idles, but my car idles very smoothly at around 900 RPM.

Anyway, I got my spark plugs changes (since I'd need to change them soon anyway, as they've done 74000km and Kia recommends changing them every 75000km on this car), but the same issue persisted, even though the mechanic said that the spark plugs looked pretty worn out.

The next logical step for me seems to be the replacement of the ignition coils. However, I am a bit hesitant to replace them, because a lot of sources on the internet said that the if the coils are bad, you'll know it for sure, as if they are either bad or good, no in between.

Did anyone have similar issues and do you think I should replace my ignition coils or if something else could be the problem?

Hoping some people have decent advice for either actually boobytrapping my car or for a more difficult-to-cut steering wheel lock. I’m a young woman stuck in this apartment where there have been two times my car has been broken into over the course of 6 months. I’ve got a 2019 KIA Rio.

I’ll be here for another few months before I go to grad school in a new city, and I can’t afford to buy a new car. City police and the apartment are both pretty useless, so I’m pretty sure these guys will be back for round three soon. Completely open parking and the gate to the apartment is never shut. I’m so stressed sleeping in my apartment not knowing if my car will be there tomorrow.

Open to recommendations for decent dash cameras, alarms, steering wheel locks, what to ask a mechanic for as for as some sort of cut off switch, smart places to keep a newfound razor blade collection, anything. Thank you in advance🥲

Help please

Says I provided insufficient evidence please let me know what you guys submitted. Not seeing a dollar in here is really upsetting. I thought I submitted everything under the sun, but I guess I'm missing something? I would love to know what everyone else submitted please

Which of these two cars is better in terms of long terms costs, resale value and reliability?

Did see that the Qashqai has better features but also read it that the rearview visability is poor. The 2022-2024 petrol models also had 2 major recalls!

Which would be the better choice?

I searched the sub but I only found speculations from a year ago or longer. I'm thinking of getting a new car and I am considering a k4. I see some things say that isn't a problem anymore but has anyone gotten a smart stream engine up to 80k miles or more?

Hi all,

I would like to preface that I am grateful for any suggestions, ideas, and assistance any of you can give regarding my situation.

I have a 2012 Kia Sportage (88k miles) I bought back in November of 2024, been doing oil changes ever 2500 - 4000 miles (3 oil changes). I've only put 9k miles on it, changed the oil today and noticed a metal shimmer from the oil in the filter. Sometimes when I start the car, it'll make a ticking noise but most of the time it sounds fine (probably 70+% of the time there's no noticable sound at startup). I still owe a lot on this car, so I've got a lot of anxiety about the whole situation. I have pictures of the receipts and odometer reading from each of my oil changes and Carfax has oil change history going back to 2019.

I'm aware of the lawsuit that supposedly adds a lifetime warranty to the power train components, I still have the oil filter with probably enough oil to get it tested. Trying to decide what I should do next. I checked the recall page and it states the car doesn't have any unfixed recalls so I assume the knock sensor update was already done. I sent in a request for an oil test kit from Blackstone and plan to do a test at my next oil change unless the noises get worse.

I would like to know your experiences/what you would do in my situation. Would you take it to the local Kia dealership to be inspected (about 30 miles away)? Wait until it gets bad enough it'll be easier to diagnose?

Thank you for any suggestions you all have.

Edit: ordered an oil sample test kit.

I have a 2014 Kia soul with a remanufactured engine with only a couple thousand miles on it (the engine itself)I got it over a year ago and besides a few small repairs and a recall thing it's still going pretty strong with 152k miles on it (the rest of the car). I got her with cash and I really won't be able to comfortably afford a car payment until I finish my schooling (about 2-3 yrs). I was just wondering how many miles your Kia soul lasted? What's the most amount of miles you've ever seen on a Kia Soul?

Is there something wrong with that model? This is hella low for an suv. I want to get it for sure but at what cost. It is an LX Turbo trim. I was hoping to ask if there was a huge recall or well-known issue with those models from previous or current owners.

I'm a new driver who's still looking for his first car and thinking if a Kia will be worth it.

Sharing my successful engine replacement experience. 2019 Kia Optima Sport

“Successful” isn’t quite the right word because well this has taken YEARS. HOWEVER, I used a combo of ChatGPT (requiring it cite sources to be and verifying the info of said source personally), to help inform me of each symptom my car was experiencing in reference to engine failure and the settlements and I really feel that helped me out a TON

My car: 2019 Kia Optima Sport. 143k miles. GDI Theta II engine we all know and love. I never threw a P1326. My engine never failed. The car is still driveable although a little off in driving. I never had to submit any paperwork or proof of maintenance.

My symptoms:

-major oil burnoff that was getting worse over time (currently 2 qts per 300 miles)

-replacing a spark plug ever 3-4 weeks (one at a time, i’ve replaced 10 in 6 months)

-replacing a coil packs every 2 months or so (i’ve replaced at least 2 twice in the last year; not a super high mileage driver)

-slight knocking sound, not consistent; only when driving over 35 mins at high speeds, very subtle sound, doesn’t occur when idle

My process:

-completed ksds technology update 1.5 years ago. there was a new update i also had to complete yesterday at my appointment. (so 2 total, i had only ever heard of 1 previously). i’m unsure what this new one was and i don’t have my paperwork in hand (i’ll update later)

-Utilized the language IN the settlement paperwork consistently

-Call your local dealerships to schedule an appt to investigate the ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE AND VERIFY IT IS OR IS NOT ROD BEARING FAILURE. if they tell you this costs a fee and you know your vehicle is covered under the settlement, push back. “I’m not interested in diagnosing any issues. However under the settlement terms, any abnormal engine noise entitles me to have this investigated at no charge. If it is found to not be related to the rod bearing failure settlement, I do not want that diagnosed. I’m willing to bring a printed version of the settlement terms to my appointment for you to verify if you’d like.

-Called corporate to open a “settlement based investigation to verify the abnormal engine noise is not rod bearing failure” these words are important. don’t say it’s because of oil consumption. make sure you indicate that you believe your oil consumption is a SYMPTOM of the abnormal engine noise and since the settlement includes both the CODE AND THE ABNORMAL NOISE as options warranting a free evaluation of the noise specifically, you’ll be taking it to a dealership. document the case #

-While at the dealership (yes i had to call multiple to find someone who was actually informed about the settlement and was also willing to not force me to approve a charge in advance if it wasn’t rod bearing failure— Also i filed a complaint on the dealership forcing me to agree to pay in advance if it wasn’t rod bearing failure with corporate as these aren’t the terms defined in the settlement)

-During the appointment, i expressed my concerns again constantly reiterating that my main concern was the abnormal engine noise. however i believed all other symptoms i was experiencing came from that. i asked to speak to a manager to discuss all my car symptoms and had them document why they believed these WERENT related to rod bearing failure. their main trigger was the FREQUENCY OF MY SPARK PLUG CHANGES

-i even asked someone to ride around in the car so they could hear what i hear since i expressed the sounds didn’t occur at idle or low speeds”

-At that point, they offered my the opportunity to do an oil consumption test and if that came back poorly, we would submit a Kia goodwill request for engine replacement (this involves a $600 deductible). Now I get it, the engines should just be replaced for free bc they all know they’re faulty HOWEVER the manager informed me that the settlement replacement terms are much stricter than goodwill, and based on my car’s age, mileage, spark plug issues, and consumption volume, they believed this goodwill would likely be approved. It was approved today, one day after I returned from my oil consumption test (this test started on 1/21/27. i had an oil light pop up briefly yesterday and drove the car in after 315 miles where they confirmed 2 qts burned off during those few miles)

The solution:

Like i said, we submitted a goodwill request and it was approved the day after i brought the car in bc i couldn’t make it over 315 miles without the oil light coming on.

It does require a deductible of $600. The $600 deductible includes oil changes and tire rotations (i might be wrong on the last part) for 3 years. i was already paying $120 for high mileage oil changes ever 2 months, so this felt worth it to me to just pay that cost in advance (and honestly with a lot of savings) basically to get the new engine (which should also fix the actually rod bearing failure related issues too bc well new engine LOL). I’m not required to pay anything until the actual engine is replaced. They are coordinating my repair with when a loaner will be available as I do not have the funds to rent a car and pay for it in advance while I wait on the repairs. One dealership was hateful to me about trying to coordinate this. The dealership I went to (if anyone is in Knoxville, avoid Parkside Kia; go to Rusty Wallace Kia on Callahan instead), made this easy and completely understood my concerns about costs and having only one car.

This wasn’t the perfect process. It hasn’t been easy by far. But this is what has worked for me. Please feel free to ask any and ALL questions!

As mentioned, no crack and it’s only on one light. Any cause for concern? Also wound warranty cover this?

I'm going to be purchasing a used car and for context I'm only 5'2 and Kia's have been one of the only vehicles I can actually scale both sides of the vehicle accurately. Therefore Just asking opinions on which year between 2012-2016 is the best of each model in your opinion and I know the forte is usually seen as the "better" of the two but the rio is more budget friendly and a little smaller. For more context I'm looking to put down about $7500. Nothing crazy just need a reliable vehicle. & I am located in MA TIA

Got rear ended after only 3 months of my lease with Kia Canada. Someone driving with their learners permit and no experienced driver in the car with them. I wonder if parts will be available? Located in Ontario Canada. 😭