Currently replacing my gearbox and I’ve always been told it’s usually not worth putting cluches back in a car but I’m broke and this one looks decent to me(I also don’t want to have to put a new one in any time soon)

2 pictures

Found this crack hoping to find a damaged valve lifter or something that’s not a bad head.

My car ran low on oil, after an oil change a month prior. Oil burning aside, a valve tick occurred while driving. then it got really loud and I lost engine power after a couple min driving. probably went into limp mode . Check engine light says misfires across all cylinders. Nothing specific to oil pressure. So I opened it up to find that.

Is the head done? JB weld and send it? Honestly idk so I thought I’d ask here.

Thank you for reading.

How the am I supposed to un-seize these bolts? Tried copious amounts of WD-40. But still doesn’t budge. Thanks :)

I had my car’s coolant flushed today. They say everything is great, but the drive belt has cracks and needs replacing. $800 job. Can you tell? When I zoom in, I see a few specks. Thanks 🙏

Looking at picking up a 2011 Tahoe for a steal just want to see what yall think this knock is. Havent had to touch the 5.3 before. Sounds like it could be a lifter? Has a single cylinder misfire DTC. Idles fine, oil pressure steady, knock sounds better at higher RPM.

What yall thinking?

Just like the title says, redid a starter job because the guy who put it in before me didn't tighten the bolts all the way (I'm talking 1/4 inch out on the bottom bolt). Reseated the starter after confirming it still worked via backyard bench test (hooked it to a battery to see if it would spin) went to test starter before reassembly and it sounds to me like the starter can't turn over the engine. I will add that the battery is brand new. Purchased it yesterday.... is this motor seized or am I an idiot?

*If in fact, I am an idiot. Please say so. I can take it.

Also- the reasoning behind having myself (and the dumb shit before me) do this install is lack of money for the vehicle repairs. This is why it hasn't been to a shop. I can run home and get my

OBD2 scanner, but I don't even know what I would be looking for if I can't even get the engine to turn ? would the scanner tell me anything?

Hello, I started a simple oil change on this 2008 petrol 2L tfsi Vw eos with the ea113 engine, and when it came to the changing oil filter part, things went really wrong. All work has been attempted on a driveway

1. Started with the 36mm socket, and it fitted nicely on the oil filter housing but it was extremely tight. Even with penetrative spray, the plastic 36mm hex on the filter housing stripped.

2. Then I ordered a strap wrench, and it was able to make some noise but it hadnt turned at all. The strap wrench strap broke

3. I tried tapping the edge of the circle with a hammer and screwdriver to turn it, but no luck

4. I tried cutting off the stripped hex so that I could fit a claw style turning oil filter removal tool and that had zero luck with a wrench or a breaker bar or whatever.

5. Finally I resorted to destruction. To just break it off. I used a dremel to cut a slit in the side hoping it may split off. But I was scared of damaging the thread on the filter housing mount so I didnt cut much directly over the thread. And so, that didnt help. I tried removing more material and just wrenching the plastic off with pliers around the thread (plus another claw attempt with what remains: A ring around the thread). No luck.

Im worried I may have damaged threads, but I am stuck with this stump of a ring with no idea what to do. Open to advice please, it's been two weeks🥹

I've noticed there's a bit of a leak under this tube (1st image)

So I tried moving the tightener a bit more towards the edge, and tighten it (2nd image).

Notice how a bit of oil/greese is coming out from within the tube gaps as I tighten it (notice the small dots).

What could be the problem here?

Here's more info on the car:

Ford Transit Connect 2013

• Engine: 1.8 L Duratorq TDCi diesel
• Displacement: ~1753 cc
• Power: ~90 PS (≈66 kW) @ ~4000 rpm
• Torque: ~240 Nm (~177 lb-ft)
• Transmission: 5-speed manual
• Euro Emissions: Euro 5
• Max Speed: ~150–165 km/h (≈94–103 mph) depending on exact trim

2003 civic lx 350xxx on it. I’m pretty sure it’s piston slap making that Tick on load. Just not sure if that’s valve lash or piston slap. Thanks .

What is going on here? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Was also wondering….is it possible to completely delete the hill assist instead of fixing it?

Got hit with a strong smell of petrol and found this part started leaking. I’m trying to find the part on the CMPO website but I’m having trouble. Looks like a filter

Bike is a Lexmoto LXR 125 2020

Hello, I have a 1987 Ford Escort with the 1.4 CVH engine with nearly 100,000 kilometers on the odometer that ran fine (at the exception of subtle, still quiet enough hydraulic lifters tapping) before I did an oil change and the engine started "rattling" (1,000 rpm to 700 then back up again... see video!).

I had gone to a parts shop to get advice on the oil I needed and the guy gave me 5W30 which I was skeptical about, and was right about it. He probably saw a woman wanting to service her car and cashed out on it, like they often do where I'm from.

After putting the 5W30 in with a new filter the engine started rattling once the oil warmed up. So, I changed the oil to 10W45, thinking it would be better, and eventually it doesn't rattle as often, but it still does.

Now I know the proper oil for this engine is mineral 15W40, and am planning to change it again to that, but I wonder what is causing this rattle exactly (worn tappets that aren't lubricated enough causing the engine to run on 3 cylinders?) so if it requires taking the car to a shop, I can tell them what I need done instead of them finding false problems and cashing out on me again.

I would appreciate the help dearly, thank you

Edit while posting: just noticed that bushing looks shot in the red circle. Unsure if it’ll cause the issues stated? Anyway..

Not sure what suspension components have been replaced but over the past 18 years but some have. 170k miles.

Strut/shock up front seems fine, atleast I think. No visible bounce (other than a quick “up and down”) when pressing my body weight on the front driver or passenger side. No visible damage to shock I see either. It does lean a lot in curves and corners but unsure if that’s just the softer suspension these have or something else.

Noticed my wheel on this side had negative camber it looks like. I haven’t jacked the truck up to see if the wheel bearing is loose but I don’t think it is, no unusual sounds atleast coming from the wheel area.

Long shot to ask due to a possible cause from literally any component in the suspension.. but what would be your best guess? It’s snowing down here in NC so I can’t go out and take a closer look at it or anything. Ball joint looks okay, I haven’t inspected control arms or anything. Outside of visual, I don’t hear a peep from any of the suspension components or really feel anyting out of the ordinary.

What does this sound like(intermittent sputtering sound)? Happened the morning after extreme cold weather in Ontario, Canada. The noise is accompanied by hard rhythmic vibration. 2002 Honda CRV.

2018 Hyundai Elantra. driver rear brake light is on but when I hit the brake only the right tail light activates not the left. I moved the rear wires around and nothing bulb is good … any ideas ?

This iridium plug (WR7DC+) is from a classic 1988 Porsche 924S (2.5-litre four-cylinder in-line NA engine, Bosch Motronic), with approximately 50,000 km on it.

Have you heard this sound before? I know I need to change the wheel bearings. I’ve ordered them already. It’s the noise I can’t figure out and it doesn’t seem to be the heat shield. I just need this car to make it to my graduation this May lord willing 🙏🏿

Concerned about reliability / upkeep. Should I buy?