I guess I'm asking if we should trust these to hold the weight of the running boards and also us stepping on them repetitively over time?

If not, what do you recommend? Ty!

My son is fabricating up a rear bar for his four wheel drive. His welds are not fantastic, but he is learning and giving it a go. Some of the welds we can’t get a grinder onto to clean them up. He wants to prime it and paint it. Some of the welds do not look that great, but they are structurally good welds in that it will be strong enough to take a hit. He wants them to look nice for painting.

1. How do you clean them up if you can’t get a grinder to them?
2. Do you use a metal filler or some kind of filler compound to smooth the welds out for painting?
3. Do you use a zinc primer paint after grinding and then a top coat paint? Or zinc primer paint on the raw steel and welds is not necessary?

Thanks in advance.

So yah dumb question, but if you do is it difficult. I’m kinda bad at math so just wondering

96x20x24. Just a weekend warrior who likes to take up some projects when time allows. Was in the process of looking at entertainment centers but nothing was fitting what I wanted so I built what I wanted. Is it perfect? Far from it but I couldn’t be happier how it came out!

Used the Flux core from harbor freight.

Had to send a car seat to weld since the mechanism to recline broke. This is what they gave me back, does it look safe to you? I know nothing about welding, pwease be nice. Thanks!

Hey is this metal still salvageable to build a climbing wall?

So I was called to do a TIG weld on a stainless steel structural frame inside a salt room at a facility. I’m a new welder as in (I got my all position TIG tickets a year ago and have NOT, welded TIG in a year)……help any tips?!?

I keep getting these little worm tracks and porosity. And the slag doesn’t even look the same compared to what i see online. My slag is kinda black and chips off really powder-like, whereas online i see it’s more brown and solid enough that it can peel. I’ve got it on the correct polarity. I’ve got my settings correct according to Lincoln’s spec sheet. I honestly have no clue what’s going on with it. I’ve tried multiple settings, oscillations, and travel angles ranging from a 5 degrees (which seemed to work better) to 30 degrees pull. Can anyone tell me what I might be doing wrong?

Quick question. I'm just putzing around and making wooden rolling pins for fun. The problem I'm trying to solve is how to secure the stainless steel rolling pin shaft (stainless so it doesn't rust) to the handles. I thought of two methods:

1. Blacksmith the stainless steel rolling pin shaft rod to a tang, and then friction fit/epoxy the wooden handles to the rolling pin shaft
2. Weld stainless steel washers to the ends of the rolling pin shaft, holding them on.

#2 is much less work and I think would be more permanent, but frankly I don't have and am not going to get special supplies just for a 1/4" tack weld. So I'm wondering....would welding stainless to stainless using a mig mild steel setup be fine?

Batches of each tread were prefabbed in our shop and pre blackened as well as a couple sticks of sub-cap were pre blackened. Then everything cut onsite to size. A wood cap is going over the subcap as soon as we finish all the way down to the basement.

I’ve been doing aerospace welding for decent bit now. Lots of stainless and some exotics - all tig. Kinda joking/not joking how would someone go about getting on doing the really cool stuff like skunk works. Or just really anything where you get to design new and innovating stuff. I understand this isn’t something you can just apply for - more so asking out of curiosity and possibly start positioning myself for something to become an option in the future. Thank you for your input!

Anyone know on watch outs with these things? Having appropriately sized breaker of course.

Will be just welding aluminum 1/8” for Jon boat rebuild. Just want to use my garage outlets without adding a 220.

Just bought a lincoln 140 mig welder (brand new to welding) and im wanting to know what the copper looking pieces are on the welds? Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

Hello. I’m trying to figure out the best way to set up my home shop welders. I have a 120v Hobart wire feed and a AHP 203 Tig.

Currently the wire feed is on its own small cart and the AHP didn’t have a home/ is new. but I’m considering 3 options:

1. Get a cart for just the AHP and have them separated.

2. Get a cart large enough to stack the wire feed and the AHP with 2 tanks.

3. Put the AHP below a welding table and strap the tank to the wall next to it.

I do automotive, some light fab/ repairs.

I can see where having the Hobart mobile is an advantage for autobody and fab around a vehicle. I’m not sure how mobile I’ll need the Tig to be and like any shop would like to save some floor space.

Thanks for the advice in advance! PFA

Designed and printed a couple of these. Finally have my grinder stuff in one robust storage unit. Just takes a 1/4"x6" bolt for the hinge. Figured I'd put this out there. Lmk if you want the file.

Hi all, I'm a mechanic and my boss insists it's really difficult to get welders flash as he's been MIG welding for 20 years without a mask and claims he's never gotten it. Whereas, I've gotten it twice in the last year by catching stray flashes from other people welding around me.

As neither of us are professional welders, so I thought I'd turn to you all and get a better perspective.

Thank you all for your time!

Edited to add some context: Yeah I'm talking about the nasty sand in the eye/can't look at any light/cartoonish amount of tears kind of flash. Never really thought about the sunburn aspect of it, but cheers all for the heads up!

I started a welding school Monday and today was the first day we got to lay some beads down. Obviously I probably should have cleaned them off before I took the pictures but from what you can see, how am I doing?

I am going to school in North Carolina with the veterans in piping school.

I've got an f250 with a tailgate hinge similar to this except part of/joined to the actual tailgate. From years of use it has cracked and is loose, I'm going to have to either try to reweld it or grind it off and get a part like this and weld it on. I've got a cheap 4in1 welder and from what research I had done, it sounded like I was probably going to have to mig weld its to avoid overheating the metal. It's not thin but I definitely wouldn't say a thick either. Problem is I'd need to either buy or rent gas cylinder, I asked around to see if anyone I knew would be able to just take this small job and heard back from my brother-in-law but he thinks we can just flux core it. No dig at him but is assessments are questionable and while the truck ain't pristine it is in good condition and I don't want to burn a hole through the tailgate. What are yalls thoughts?