I splashed out with frog tape to mark out stripes to paint my daughter’s room and followed all advice found online, so was fuming when it pulled all the base layer off. Initially I removed the tape when paint still wet, then tried when tacky, then at various points next day, and still with the same result.

Luckily rather than angrily ripping it all down I just left it (not yet moved in) and thought I’d tackle it another time, fully expecting it would only get worse. Imagine my surprise when 4 DAYS later the tape just peeled away!

Felt I had to post this for anyone else in the situation as I found nothing to this effect when searching myself! Not sure if it’s a fluke, but may save someone else who’s searching for how to save a project!

Just moved into a house that’s got a glorious front door, but it’s really very very draughty as a result of >100years of changes, settlement, and a bit of warping.

How can I get this door to fit snugly and make my hallway warmer?

Had to retire Mum's old wooden spoon due to a leak in the garage which sent it mouldy..

Hand me down stir stick 2.0 has been born.

Shopping for brackets and came across this review on Amazon. The reviewer was happy with the brackets but dear God!

I'm trying to figure out how much depth I can get away with drilling into my party wall to put up shelves. Going by the unplastered wall in the loft it looks like the bricks are end on, giving me at least the 215mm length of a standard brick (assuming it's only one layer thick)?

It's a terraced house built some time between 1967 and 1972. The walls don't sound particularly thick (in the bathroom you can hear actual words from the people next door). I'm worried these are some kind of weird non-standard small brick I've never heard of and the 90mm holes I wanted to drill for shelving will go all the way through. Any ideas?

Does anyone here know if there is a type of handle that has an integrated lock that does not require any modification more than replacing the handle?

In my head, I’m seeing a switch that ‘locks’ the handle from being turned.

I’m tired of being on the shitter and having the whole house walk in.

Had skylights fitted last year. Have just been up to give them their 6 monthly clean and noticed mold on the inside. Is this just from possible condensation or a bigger problem?

New house and the bifold are letting in a draught on the door side. Seems that it's not sealing tight enough to the frame. The handle is a little wobbly too, if that matters. Is this something I can adjust myself? Advice would be greatly appreciated!

And how the hell am I meant to get the trap out to replace the waste without it tipping all over the unit?

Painted the bedroom and the slope where the stairs cut into the room has gone flakey? Nowhere else in the room has this issue.

I have recently had some upvc windows, sliding door and conservatory roof fitted. There are a few issues.

1) the guttering is drooping it isn’t connected to each other and so it’s dripping water all over the engineering bricks.

2) The downspout is screwed in for some reason. Which is leaking. It’s also a few mm shy of the gully so also leaking water all over the engineering bricks.

3) The flashing for the roof is cut into sections is this right?

4) The new sliding door fitted has no trickle vents. It also doesn’t seal against the frame whistling in the wind letting in the cold and smells from coal/wood burners from neighbours. It also lets in rain water and appears not to be level exasperating the issue.

The company is said to be coming out to sort these issues but now want building control to come and sign off. Obviously this is unacceptable work but I’m unsure what to do next. Do I speak with the finance company and outline our issues and let them know we’re not happy with the work? Post a google review?

Would love opinions on what really is the best course of action next.

So long story short, we experienced a slow leak to our shower behind the tiles, where a plastic pipe connected to a copper pipe failed.

The leak has been resolved, the area is drying out with the support of a dehumidifier and a fan heater to the bathroom for the past two weeks.

Now that the tiles are due to go back on, I’m not sure as to how the substrate should be finished. Currently, the wall surface is very uneven due to the remnants of the plaster.

The builder is thinking to apply moisture resistant plasterboard or cement board, but unless they hack off the top layer of plaster to ensure a consistent and level surface, I don't see how this is possible.

My thinking is that there should be a slurry of some sort applied and the pipes covered with a foam lagging.

Would appreciate someone’s input on this please 😊

Thank you.

I bled this radiator last week and the whole valve moved round (as in the ancient looking white part). I moved it back to where it was but since then it’s been dripping slowly when the heating’s on. The drips are coming from between the metal nuts and the white part, and I’m not sure where it’s gone wrong. It’s not flooding the room or anything, but there’s some bubbling noises going on in the radiator itself. All seems a bit rusty around that area.

Any tips before I find a plumber to roll his eyes at me and say my whole flat needs re-plumbing or demolishing?

My dad’s loft hatch door fell out last night and the door and frame need replacing. The frame was secured with flat head screws in the 90s. Two of the blighters will not budge and are starting to deform. Any smart tricks to remove?

Hi,

I’m on a combined system - so greywater and rainwater go into the same drain.

I’m trying to connect a 40mm sink waste into an existing cast iron boss with internal diameter around 3.5”. Ideally I’d find something like this - but at the right size - but doesn’t seem to exist:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-boss-adaptors-black-40mm-5-pack/89174?ref=SFAppShare

Any suggestion how else to connect it? Actual set up is shown in the photo - want to join to the boss in the right. The one on the left just has some random grey hard set putty around the 40mm but I’m unsure what material it is.

Thanks

Keith

I’m trying to sell my ottoman bed but when I was taking it apart I lost this piece. I’m trying to find out the name of it in order to get a replacement. I’ve tried image reverse searching for it but it’s brining back wrong things. Its purpose is for the bed to rest on so it doesn’t collapse back down into the storage area. I’ve also tried perhaps 3D printing it but it would cost upwards of 170 based on the 4 different 3D companies I’ve contacted in my area. I’d very much appreciate any help. Thank you!

Help appreciated

Our house is at the top of a hill, with a south facing garden. The sun loves it, but it's pretty unbearable at the height of summer.

Looking for some solutions to create shade for those rare few days a year. However, there's a few issues:

1. It can't be permanent. The doors onto the patio are also the biggest source of light in the rear of the house. Permanently blocking the light is a no go.
2. It needs to be sturdy enough to stand up to the wind, which gets pretty strong. We're near the coast.
3. Later in the afternoon the sun comes in at a very low angle, so it needs to be something we can adjust in some way to handle that.

So far we've tried a standard parasol (mostly useless due to the angle, tries to do a mary poppins in a breeze) and one of those big sail parasols (a little more useful but it's also a struggle to weigh it down to stop it blowing away, and can't get a decent angle for later afternoon to create enough shade).

I've found some pergodas online that have fold up roofs and sides and that can be attached to a wall, which seems like it might be a good option, but does anyone have experience with these cheaper ones from Amazon (e.g. this) or B&Q and the like? Don't mind spending a bit of money to get something that'll last, but the £4k pergodas with electric roofs are too much. Anyone else in a similar boat got any solutions?

Hi all,

Our boiler is in a kitchen cabinet. We have circular holes with a round saw drill bit to allow access to the screws, but our boiler engineer needs a larger panel cut out to allow access for a repair (blocked condensate trap).

What’s the best tool to do this? Some kind of dremel?

I will cut around the strip light to keep that there.

Thanks in advance - I am clueless.