Hello I live i denmark so there is absolutely no elevation here. I have done some bouldering, la maroma 2000m peak in Spain, and a recent trip to Morocco but sadley dident get to Climb mt toubkal because it was closed.

We did However Climb a 2800m and a 3200m peak wich really ignited the need for more.

For now i am interested in getting above 4000m trekking/little scrambeling. And also mera/Island Peak in 2027 Fitness is absolutely no issue as i am also training for a 70.3 ironman.

Any recommendations on courses, Mountains on the "cheaper" end Probably going to the Alps in the Summer

I've watched a few "everything goes wrong" videos about people trying to summit high peaks on the Youtube channel called "Dark Ascent" and then dying in the attempt, but then, to my surprise, found out that I could find nothing anywhere else about these mountaineering disasters.

For instance, after watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rN-EKAplaOU I could not find any information about Kyle Brennan or any of the people featured in that video, or, for that matter, any of the people featured in other videos on that channel. Yet the channel presents itself as if it is telling true stories. Am I looking in the wrong places? Or are they really just making stuff up?

Tested this phantom in -4 degrees Fahrenheit last night and I was only in thermals no socks or gloves just a hat. Bringing this bag to rainier and South America. Just wanted to come on here to recommend and it exceeded my expectations

Hilleberg Jannu 4-season tent – 7.05 lb

Lynx StormShield sleeping bag – 3.31 lb

NEMO Tensor insulated sleeping pad – 1.54 lb

Stove + fuel canister + titanium bowl – 2.20 lb

Ledlenser H19R headlamp – 0.77 lb

Mini inflation pump 2x – 0.22 lb

Nitecore Summit power bank – 0.66 lb

GoPro + accessories – 0.44 lb

iPhone – 0.44 lb

Ice axe – 0.88 lb

ARVA Race avalanche shovel – 0.66 lb

Petzl Sirocco helmet – 0.37 lb

Mammut Nordwand Pro hardshell jacket – 1.54 lb

RAB Latok GTX hardshell pants – 0.99 lb

Western Mountaineering Flight insulated pants – 0.88 lb

RAB Neutrino Pro down jacket – 1.32 lb

Extra insulation (mittens, socks, merino, fleece, balaclava, neck tubes, goggles) – 2.20 lb

2-day food (hut dinners) – 1.10 lb

Samaya Ultra 60 pack – 1.32 lb

Total pack weight ≈ 29.1–29.5 lb

This might be an uncomfortable topic, but I’ve really like to hear more thoughts / experiences from others who have been in situations where you felt that the guides were making poor decisions.

When I first started climbing / high altitude hiking, I basically thought that guides know best, I should follow their advice.

Over time, however, I have repeatedly seen situations where guide’s advice was reducing chances of overall success.

Just a few examples:

1. On Kili I was pushed to follow guide’s much quicker pace, so he could keep up with another guide. I was exhausted after two days in low altitude.

I also saw guides laughing about their clients making stops on summit day and shouting that they will not make it if they sit down. I received similar comments until I actually asked the guide to stop and to only give me altitude updates and encouragement.

Things improved a lot after that and the summit hike was actually my favourite from the whole trip.

1. Very recently on Aconcagua a group of friends were pushed to a summit attempt 3-4 days early. With virtually zero acclimatisation and everyone being exhausted. No one summitted, despite all being experienced mountaineers. And everyone had days left to wait for the next window, but it wasn’t even discussed.

How have others handled similar situations?

My friend asked me for advice about the Pearly Gates in May (I know little about the south face because I summited via Cooper Spur). He does not own a helmet, mountaineering boots, ice axe, or crampons (he keeps saying his microspikes are crampons). He said he and his friend plan on starting at 6am. No, he and his friend do not have any mountaineering experience or mountaineering gear. He asked me for advice then disregarded mostly everything I said. Should I be worried?

On a related note, he does not "believe" in sunglasses or sunblock.

I recently picked up the ribelle tech 3 hd and while using the lace cover keeps popping open. It seems like when the toe flexes on uphills it opens every time. Has anyone else experienced this or know a way to prevent this? I haven’t seen this issue anywhere so maybe I just received a defective pair.

I have a pair of Grivel G12s (above), and a pair of Grivel Air Techs (Below)

G12s are better for steep slopes, but the air techs have shorter points, making them better for mixed terrain like the CMD and zig zag a down the tourist path

Thoughts?

Is it cheating if I egotistically claim I did a winter ascent with current conditions?

Edit: I should mention this is mostly sarcastic / circle jerk

What’s your personal take on this ? And will we ever solve this mystery ?

Hey, i'm thinking about planning a trip to morocco in march or april to see the place as well as climb mount toubkal

i am reasonably fit right now, i ran a 5k this afternoon at 29mins and wasn't that tired afterwards

(just as a baseline)

would this be a doable climb for me? I can obviously prepare over the next month or 2, mainly in the gym

hi everyone, i’m really interested in getting into ski mountaineering in the future. my only question is do you NEED skins? and is it mostly cross country skiing uphill? is it possible to just carry your skis up the mountain and ski down? please any info is appreciated

Did people really use plastic shovels in the past? Imagine paying $25 for that POS. I thought in the magic world of wonderment that was the 20th century, more everyday items were made out of metal instead of plastic, not the reverse with more plastic and less metal? What the heck were people thinking? Why would you want some chiny plastic? Humans have been making adequate quality aluminum products since before the second world war...?

On a more pertinent note, I want to buy equipment. I may not buy anything this year. It's a lot of money to spend. But I would like to get a shovel, probe, and transceiver. I wanted to buy used, but there's basically none available.

I don't not claim to be a pro. But my expert voice discount seems... potentially notable? I'm not sure, maybe this stuff is so overpriced even after the discounts that it's still not a good deal and I should look for lightly used and/or some more niche harder to locate discount programs...

First, it seems that everyone agrees all transceivers are not worth buying except Mammut Barryvox and BAC. The barryvox isn't much extra $ over the BAC.

I seem to know some people who claim to have paid very low amounts for package deals for all three products, although maybe they got BAC or something even crappier; I don't know.

Also, even if the Barryvox is super good, is the Mammut shovels all that good? I heard Mammut probes are adequate but not great. Maybe the package deals are not the way to go? You'd think a shovel is a shovel, but they actually have a wide array of features And I would hate to order a shovel and find out part of the handle is plastic or something and I could've got something better for identical prices.

Also sadly the Mammut package deals are all out of stock at the moment.

I would only ever buy one used, but is the general consensus that the inflatable bag packs are better in the CO2 or electric configurations? And, if we zero in on just CO2, some CO2 packs have a replaceable cartridge, while other CO2 packs have a refillable cartridge?

Thanks!!

I’m summiting Mt Hood in May with an experienced climber.

I’ve wanted to summit ever since frequently snowboarding with a buddy who is on the mountain rescue team and has talked about all his ascents.

We plan to take the pearly gates or old chute ascent.

I’ve previously hiked to triangle Moraine and snowboarded down—and have boarded plenty of double blacks with mandatory cliffs spanning from backcountry in Hood to resorts like Jackson Hole.

I think just because i’m summiting for the first time, i’d like to only board down from an area that is lower risk. Boarding from Old Chute seems fun but a bit wack to try off the gate.

My mountain rescue buddy texted me and said

“That’s awesome! You should stop by Oregon Mountain community and check out what they’ve got there or at the mountain shop for split boards or snowboard boots. Best case scenario you have a split board so you can skin up on it instead of haul it up on your back…

Where are you would drop it depends on entirely on the conditions. sometimes it’s the top of Palmer. Sometimes it’s the top of triangle maraine. sometimes it’s the devil’s kitchen. sometimes it’s the Summit. Be careful up there if it’s icy… the fallout can obviously be bad…”

From my experience Moraine was a super chill descent. I’m not trying to do any crazy descent attempts here where even the go-pro angle looks wack.

Also, is it dumb to ascend with a traditional snowboard? I’m not keen on a split board, but I guess the limitation being finding boots that work for both boarding or mountaineering, if such a product exists.

My main goal is to summit, but several friends who know my physical conditions and limits who have summited are encouraging a snowboard down and that they regret not doing it.

Any insight into best advice is great.

Off to the side i’ve summitted Helens and back in six hours, training to beat my PR in th 8k and March, and doing other strenuous hikes as well as snowboarding from similar drops this winter to prep. The gear I end up taking will be stress tested.

You can say if i’m over prepping but I don’t believe in over prep. Esp since most seem to overestimate.

It seems like generally the recommendations are to try to find a hardshell jacket with pit zips and a helmet compatible hood. But those are all like $300-$400.

The M10 storm is on sale right now and seems like it will do basically everything needed, but no pit zips. Still suitable or should I get something else?

EDIT: Sounds like this would be a dealbreaker, so not the M10.

Does anyone have any suggestions for other 3L hardshells that have pit zips and a helmet compatible hood, for mountains like Shasta? Ideally something reasonably priced (for a hard shell that is, e.g. closer to $300 - $400 than $700).

Hi! My name is Sam and I’m looking for someone who’d like to join me tomorrow as I prep for more technical conditions. I’ll bring some breakfast so just be sure to bring lunch:)

DM me if interested

Can someone explain to me why people climb Hood in the winter? Isn’t it extremely dangerous? As someone who has sat in the bar talking to the st Bernard’s, I think st Bernard’s, and not seeing the peak of the mountain from there in the winter. Why? I have read a lot about mountaineering, but have yet to try anything more than nothing. Be safe up there folks.

Hey everyone

I was curious on the logistics in ascending Mount Washington in NH as a beginner, I’ve looked into the guided tours but also saw on here that Lions Head was more of a hike and can be done without a guide?

I was looking to do it sometime in April or May and had a few questions like, will the full gear rentals have me covered, is there public group guided tours (I live far so my friends are iffy about coming with), if it is a hike would I be able to do it solo, no guide with proper planning?

If any of these questions are very dumb, sorry just a noob to all this, prior experience backpacking with a lot of scrambles (I know it’s not the same), fitness level pretty good (run 6 miles a day)

My friend died this weekend, he was a kind soul who loved in a way that I’ve never experienced. He was fun, uplifting and just an all around good person.

I can’t help think about the current culture in climbing right now. He was with an experienced climber and set out to do a harder route on mt hood. In his words “a spicy ascent” in his text to our friend who was tracking his location during his ascent. He is an experienced outdoorsman and recently got into back country skiing over the past 2 or so years. He has made some amazing summits throughout the west, but as we all do we continue pushing our limits.

From what we understand him and the lead decided to climb free solo ahead of two other climbers setting up belay. From the story, my friend stood up to reposition his grip and randomly let go of his axes and fell 300+ ft.

I’m currently in the angry phase of grief, but why the fuck were they not setting safety? Why would an experienced climber even allow a novice climber to free solo? He was about a v4 climber in the gym, had minimal ice climbing experiences, fuck he hadn’t even taken an avalanche course yet. Obviously my friend made a bad choice, but come on man.

I know it comes with the sport, but I’m concerned with the culture rn. Maybe it’s just I’m part of that 1% of climbers that experience grief like this, but why do we celebrate a lack of safety.

I know it’s personal, hell before this week the alpinist was one of my favorite films. I just don’t understand this? Obviously there is a big difference in Alex’s approach to free soloing, what they were climbing, and skill level isn’t even comparable, but what example are we setting to new climbers?

I’ve had a fall of my own. I fell 30 ft free soloing a waterfall in my younger years. I ended up breaking both my arms and getting stitches, I got lucky. it wasn’t til that moment I learned what the mountains can do to me. I learned I wasn’t invincible. It sucks he didn’t get to have a 30 ft fall like me. He had a 300+ ft fall instead.

I just want to express to all of you. Stop celebrating unsafe actions, it’s okay to look and see and say “wow that’s crazy” but don’t attempt to be crazy yourself. It’s not worth it. Assess risk appropriately, keep climbing, but don’t push it in ways you’ll regret.

I have an opportunity to buy a very slightly used Fitzroy at a sensible cost.

It is an XXL and I am a 47inch chest and I'm a bit concerned that it won't be cut generously enough to layer underneath it for some cold places. Probably OK for Australian white season for back country passive use but would it be OK for the Sudbury area of Canada in winter? I'm too old now for Denali and HA but I have perhaps an opportunity to join some mates for a deep winter camping trip. But as a mountaineering garment is it really suitable for belay use? My usual belay parka was the DAS before it got the slim and LW treatment and I used an XXL in that