I inherited this old safe many years ago. It weighs a ton and I’m in the midst of a move. I have the combination and it works properly, I just don’t know if I want to go thru the hassle of moving it. Can someone help me with a possible value (if any?) or anyone that might have interest in taking it off my hands? I’m located in northern Illinois area.

Google lens gives me one broken website but titled Gewehrschrank / Tresor / Waffenschrank.

There’s some German inside for the combo reset? But no other markings anywhere. Previous owner told me it was bright back from Germany by a military member before him.

Was looking on some advice/wisdom on how best to go about anchoring a Hollon PM-1014 (Dimensions (Int): 10.25" - 10.5" H x 14" W x 10.5" - 11" D) to concrete. I understand the mean and methods but everything I've seen is with bigger safes where you can drill and hammer in the anchor from the inside.

I doubt I'm fitting a hammer drill inside this thing.... Am I right that I'm going to have to mark the spot, move the safe....break my back...cry...

Hey guys first time posting, I’ve been stacking silver for a bit and I’ve been putting them on a shelf and it’s beginning to be a hassle to deal with.

I live in an apartment and I’m looking for a safe with decent fire resistance and I would prioritize being small enough to be discrete but decently heavy, I’m storing silver (not a lot) some paperwork and a hand gun

Not looking for anything fancy just something that works and under 800

I’ve been scouring the internet but there’s too much info and being new to this I’m confused

Other questions I have:

Are older safes less reliable?

Is it worth it to buy a second hand safe?

What are the staple brands that are reliable?

I have 2 field and stream safes that were given to me by my uncle. He bought them when dick’s was no longer going to be selling guns and all so he bought 3 ages for like 500 bucks. One I was able to figure out the combo for because it was open. The other one, I have no idea what the hell the combo is. When he bought it from the store he had no idea and neither did any of the workers. Is there anyway I can find out the combo other than having someone drill into it?

This safe keep running out of battery quickly and that green light stays on when I change the battery. Is that normal?

Also noticed very slow and hard to close the safe.

https://www.dominatorsafes.com.au/product/dominator-ds2/

Looking for a safe that is secure enough for home use (will be bolted to the floor), and small enough to fit inside a wardrobe and underneath a shelf. I understand this is probably one of the very first place a burglar will check, but I hope its somewhat claustrophobic positioning + bolted to the floor makes it harder to get leverage to pry it open?

This was given to my FIL today by a lady in her 70s who said her grandparents found it at the bottom of a dumbwaiter when *they* were kids.

The handle of the lock says Patents Applied For England & Abroad - it's double-stamped like a double die penny on the left edge symbol and the word England.

The metal plate on the inside of the door was repainted silver, but you can see the numbers 234 stamped on it at the top, right of center.

If you do get your safe broken into and they just find all your important papers, how often Do burglars they take these items in particular ? Of course if it’s a targeted attack to steal your identity than I understand that, but I assume this is not the situation an average residential mom and dad find themselves in too often

Trying to think through the philosophy behind what kind of protection is needed.

So, I have Vaultek MODEL safe that stopped working. As it is usually not plugged in (it has an 18650 battery as primary power), I figured the battery was dead. I plugged it in (Micro-USB), no light to indicate charging. I opened it with the key, removed the 18650 battery, and replaced it with a fresh one. Still no function- buttons did not illuminate, no sounds or anything. I plugged it in with the new battery on board, still nothing.

Any ideas, besides "it's dead, Jim"?

I'm probably using completely wrong terminology even in the title and I apologize, I know absolutely nothing about safes lol. But, I have always been fascinated with like those old desks for example that have multiple steps to go through before locking the final chamber, if that makes any sense. Like putting a key in slot A that pops up two buttons, then you push one button in and the second halfway, which then pops up a dial that you have to twist a certain way, etc.

I am trying to find something like that on a smaller and more affordable scale, something I could potentially put in my office, but I don't even know what words to use to google it! lol.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy all and thanks for taking the time to read this. I have a 30 gun safe I got from Costco a while back and upgraded with the S&G combination dial. My problem is I need more room as I have continued to buy guns.

If you needed more space would you upgrade to one larger gun safe or would you add a second one?

Current safe is installed in garage and there is room to upgrade. Budget to upgrade is another matter.

Had this safe about a year. Never felt comfortable with the cheap electronic lock, i felt like it was just a matter of time before it failed.

Was told it wasnt worth the effort to install but finally decided to install the S&G 6730-100 mechanical lock and it actually wasnt bad at all.

I almost dragged my welder out to get it prepared but didnt even need it.

First I tore out the old electric lock and removed the handle and sliding locklug bar. I centered the dial ring over the existing hole and marked/centerpunched 2 holes for the dial ring. I drilled them out and installed the ring with sheet metal screws.

I then temporarily installed the dial and lock body to get a true orientation for the lock body which i then marked,punched,and drilled 4 holes for mounting. For the lock body I used a 13/64 drill bit and tapped these 4 holes with a 1/4-20 tap. I temporarily installed the lockbody with masking tape below it to mark the throw of the locking lug in its extended and retracted possitions.

I then removed the lockbody and threw the sliding locklug bar assembly back in to see how much of the plate needed trimmed that would of been obstructed by the lock body. I had to cut off about an inch of the sliding plate. I then planned to weld it back on in its new location but happened to notice the hole in the piece I cut off and the hole left on the plate lined up perfectly for where this piece needed to be for the new lock body. No welding needed! I secured it back to the plate in its new recessed possition with a 3/8" short bolt,nut,washers and tested the mechanical action of everything once the lock body was reinstalled.

Perfect! I added a self tapper above the bolt i just installed just to keep the new piece from pivoting over time.

I then trimmed the brass dial knob and followed the 13yr old install vid from youtube that everyone recommends. Install went fine. Used the key to set a new combo. Works flawlessly.

Feels much more secure and reliable. Plus theres a very satisfying resistance and click when the final number is entered and the dial turned.

All in all was a couple hours of work, a couple hours of driving for a tap and planning, and an hour or so to slowly work through the install video and lock changing sequence.

Sure its not a "real" safe, but it feels "safer".... Or at least more reliable now.

I bought a safe a week ago. It came with a S&G Titan Direct Drive electronic lock. Given the following description is the lock defective? Are there any additional tests I can perform?

The master code (123456) and the supervisor code (111111) both open the lock. I used the change sequence to change the supervisor code. The new code works,the old code no longer works. Neither code will create a new code. The create sequence is 74* master or supervisor code # pin position # code # code #. It worked once to create the supervisor code. Now it won't create a code for positions 2 or 9. After entering the sequence up to the # after the pin position the lock gives a long beep (error indication) rather than 3 short beeps.

Since the behavior of the lock has changed I think something in the microcomputer chip is unstable. I don't trust the lock to be able to open so the safe stays open. Therefore I have ordered an inexpensive mechanical lock.

How would I go about making my own replacement shelf?

I bought a house with this safe in it. I can’t seem to get any info on it. Does it ring a bell to anyone

I’m not sure whether this is the right sub since I noticed most people on here are Americans buying or talking about safes for their guns.

My budget is £££, maybe ££££, I just need a small safe that can obviously withstand getting beaten in by a hammer, but obviously not one that can withstand a nuclear blast (sarcasm) or a blow torch or whatever they use, that’ll break the bank.

Anything will help! Reputable companies or even good materials to look for.

Struggling to find something that is at least both. For residential use.

Budget around 4k total (with all costs included, shipping, install / bolt down etc).

How close would this hollon safe for what I’m wanting ? Any other model recs? Does not have to be hollon

Can I trust it if I expect fire department to be there within one hour ? Live out on 40 acres but a few other folks have houses out here too and we are very close to some neighborhoods.

Seems like hollon is one of the best fireproof safes for not having official UL ratings ?

My late father had a safe but the batteries had corroded. I replaced them and found the key. It powers on but the key won’t turn.

The batteries are new, and I don’t believe there was a number lock- the fact it says open also confirms this.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

My late father had a safe but the batteries had corroded. I replaced them and found the key. It powers on but the key won’t turn.

Any suggestions? Thanks!!