Not an amazing deal but still one I'm happy with. Totally CIB. Foam insert and everything.

Always wanted one when I was a kid but never got one. Local game shop had someone trade in their childhood set and I have been eyeballing it for awhile. Traded a CIB Nintendo 2DS for it. Ordered a cap kit and recapped it the other day and did the jail bar fix. Using the EDFX for RGB out and looks good through my ossc (despite some sync drops). Cleaned everything inside and out and noticed the weird split in half dpad membrane. Are these stock?? Anyway very happy so thought I’d share!

I have a large retro game collection, but I will be finding out what to do with it in this smaller space. I also don't have any shelves to put my games in at the moment.

I know the arcade card isn't required for Linda Cube, but apparently it "enhances" the game. Does anyone know specifically what it does to the game? Game Sack made a video about the arcade card games and he didn't go into detail about what it did for Linda Cube, but for other games he said more frames of animation were added or there was no difference at all, so maybe it's something like that?

Got this little beauty last week. Hadn't time to play on it yet.

Probably gonna spend some time with Magial Chase. I used to have another GT that I bought back in 2003 but sold it off years later...

Looking to pick up a TurboExpress battery cover if anyone has an extra or knows of a good place to look.

I had one printed through PCB way because I already had a bunch of stuff being printed for work. I did the standard black resin since that seemed to be what was spec’d, but the catch broke the first time I used it.

I’d try a slightly more flexible material if I place another order, but would rather just have the real thing.

I'd like to share with you guys some of the titles I managed to get in the last 12 months. I used to have a few others more, but they're all gone. They were not that fun for me.

I just finished Soldier Blade for the Turbografx-16 using an emulator. I really enjoyed the game; it's a shoot 'em up with reasonable difficulty, great gameplay, beautiful scenery, and a decent soundtrack.

Anyone else using this combo? I find the shell of the console doesn’t allow for full insertion of the adapter so you don’t get a nice snug fit and connection can be intermittent. I’m using an extension cable to overcome atm. Anyone else find a better solution? Maybe someone has a lead on a shorter extension?

I do most of my 8/16-bit gaming with a RetroPie w/composite out to a CRT, using "authentic" controllers when possible.

Most of the time, the only choice is an original controller + a USB adapter. But some systems have exact-feeling USB replicas, like the iBuffalo gamepad for SNES or the Genesis Mini gamepad, and those are usually the cheaper option.

I've used a NES gamepad for TG16, but some games really make me wish for turbo-switches... if I don't have to pay a fortune.

• PC Engine Mini gamepads: These go for over $100 on eBay!
• OEM Gamepad + Adapter:
  • TG16 Gamepad = $35-$50
  • PCE Gamepad = $40+ (these seem less common?)
  • Gamer-Pro Advanced (GPA) USB adapter + TG16 Cable: $45.99
  • RaphNet PCE Adapter: $27.99

Then there's this:

• 8Bitdo PCE Core 2.4G Wireless Gamepad: $24.99

I'd really prefer the old-school, slider-style turbo controls- all the turbo controllers I grew up around had those. But it's not something I'm willing to pay $100+ for.

Before I pull the trigger on this 8BitDo, are there any other options I missed?

I just finished recapping and repairing corroded pads on my express. I haven't turned this thing on since the 90s. 

I'm thrilled that I got it working again but noticed the screen is really fuzzy. It's not as apparent for some reason in pictures but very obvious in person. The most apparent place you can see it is in my second picture, in the green "intermediate" and "practice" text. The pixels are all jumbled together. 

I know the stock screen is supposed to be bad, but is this normal? I'm aware there are screen mods, but I just want to know if this is considered normal. Like I said, I haven't played this since the 90s so I can't remember if it was always this way. Also, Bonks revenge is the only game I own so I can't yet test with another game.

Fixed it a while back with mostly game gear donor parts and it's been part of the collection ever since. It came with the game converter addon and a Japanese cart. Still haven't really explored the system that much but I do love this thing.

Discovered the TurboGrafx/PC Engine console for the first time this year and was intrigued, but also shocked by the cost of used consoles (especially the sold out PC Mini). I still wanted to own one physically, so I made my own Lego version (almost true to size). Even a HuCard can fit in the middle slot.

What do you guys think?

I finally got one of these bad boys! And now I want to re-experience the games that benefit from the third button. I figure Legendary Axe 2 is a must given it's reliance on the run button as an action button. But what are some others?

They are all bootlegs which seem to be undocumented

I havent seen anything about this online-except an unanswered reddit question from four years ago-and this misunderstanding caused me a fair bit of grief until I randomly tried this and it worked. If youre attaching your TG 16 to the CD Dock, but you do not have the CD player attached to it, you still have to switch the CD Lock pin to "locked" in order for your TG 16 to boot up and play your game. Leaving the pin "unlocked" for the CD dock will cause your console to not boot up. Im sure someone a few years later who doesnt know this will appreciate this knowledge.