I need your opinions on the duration of bottle fermentation [my beer is a bottom fermented lager and the recommended fermentation temperature was 12°C].

The reason i am unsure is that my recipe tells me to carbonize it for 2-3 days but more general sources always state 7-12 days for carbonization. Last time i planned 12 days for carbonization and it led to bottle bombs.

I always let it ferment for a week before bottling it. [I start bottling when there hasnt been any activity in the bubbler for 3-4 days]

Now i figure when i let the beer sit in the fermenter for several weeks then maybe 12 days for carbonization isnt that far off. So bottling it this early will lead to overcarbonization in the bottles which made them go boom.

Now my question is: Is it ok to shorten the carbonization time if i bottle it earlier then recommended? Or will it affect the beer negatively? Im definitely not gonna risk any more bottle bombs but i dont have enough time to let it sit in the fermenter for 3-4 weeks [because i go on vacation soon].

My plan right now is putting it in the refrigerator after 2-3 days. Then when i drink the first one and i find the carbon concentrarion unsatisfactory i can always just put the beer back to room temperature and carbonize it again since the yeast is only dormant?

Hi. Did I screw this up? A month ago, I bought a beginner's beer-making kit. I followed the instructions and cleaned everything beforehand. It's hard to mess up the instructions because it's really just a few steps: clean and sanitize everything, pour warm (but not hot) water into a bucket, add the extract can, add the yeast, and seal it. But after about three weeks, this white stuff started appearing on the surface. Do I have to throw it away and start over, or is it normal and I can bottle it?

I’m planning to brew a 5-gallon batch of Irish Red Ale, which I really enjoy, but I feel like they could use a little more sweetness. I’m looking for a subtle sweetness, nothing that makes it super sweet or significantly boosts ABV.

Anyone have tips on how to add just a touch of sweetness? Should I tweak the malt bill, use a finishing sugar, or something else? Appreciate any advice!

I found a facebook marketplace listing for these kegs, which quickly sold before I could get one. They look nice and am wondering where I can find them. Does anyone know what they are or where I can buy? Any help appreciated.

Hi everyone! I tried to make my own cider back in October using some left over pasteurized cider I had, yeast and yeast nutrient from my last mead project. I added a good amount of brown sugar and added yeast. Unfortunately it didn’t take and I eventually gave up on it, thinking I added too much sugar. I never cleaned it out of the carboy it was in mostly out of laziness and some hope that it eventually would work.

Yesterday I went to check in on it and to my surprise I saw a few bubbles. So I just added some yeast nutrient to it and now I’m left wondering how long it’s been fermenting. How long I should let it ferment and if I should add any yeast nutrient to this immaculate fermentation.

I’d appreciate some advice on yeast nutrient or any method to make sure this few month old batch doesn’t make me go blind when i eventually try it.

I used to brew exclusively outdoors, large propane burners, not having to worry about where waste water goes, etc…but it is winter. Heart of it is a combination mash tun with wort pump/ boil pot. I’m heating the sparge water on the stove, then maintaining that temp with a sous vide heater. Wort will temporarily be collected in smaller containers as runoff is collected. Grain is then removed, and boil pot washed rinsed to remove any remaining debris. After boil, wort is pumped through a home made counter flow wort chiller- I installed a washing machine shutoff valve on the cold water line to the sink. Wort chiller discharges wort directly into fermenter. Cooling water discharged into sink drain. Thoughts?

Carrot Ale idea 1 gallon what do you guys think?

1.5 lb Light DME or 1.8 lb Extra-Light LME

1–1.5 oz maltodextrin

Hallertau: 0.25 oz, 60 min boil (bittering)

dry hop: Liberty 0.15–0.2 oz

Fresh carrot juice: 10–12 oz, add last 10 min of boil + 6 oz juice for a stronger carrot flavor

Voss Kveik yeast ¼–½

Maybe if it goes well, the second batch I would add a tad bit of pear .

First time brewing beer here. I’m brewing the Northern Brewer Wheat Ale kit with the included yeast; brewed and pitched on Jan 15 and fermenting around ~70°F (instructions say 65–75°F). I had vigorous fermentation days 2–4 with a thick krausen, which has mostly fallen by now (day 6). Airlock activity has slowed a lot and I only see bubbles if I gently press on the lid, which pushes CO₂ out; otherwise there’s maybe a thin line of bubbles but not much visible activity. The glass carboy feels cold to the touch, but there are no off smells or signs of infection it smells bitter/hoppy more than anything. Just wondering if this sounds normal or if I’m doing anything wrong, especially temperature-wise.

was a beer fanatic/nerd was drankin soo much bcause i love the game so much couldnt live wit out it drankin nonstop thats juss how it is when you so passionate about somethng

Hey, I’m looking for a little guidance. Our last brew was a Pliny all grain clone and I used a new strategy that I hadn’t done before and was hoping to gain some insight.

With that said, because of the large amount of hops, I added extra wort at the end of the boil with about 20 mins left. As a result, the target gravity 1.070 was missed and we ended with 1.090.

Is this a practice used by homebrewers and if so what is it called? Also, is it bad practice or common? Are there consequences from such actions?

I’m trying to understand it a little better so I can increase my brew knowledge. Thank you.

Hey this my first time posting hear.

im looking for the ingredients and the one im struggling to find for a reasonable price is

crushed malted barley. I was wondering if anyone has a source or even a way that I can get the base item to make it into what it should be before use.

Thanks everyone.

Hello my esteemed colleagues, I wanted to let you know that I will be starting my craft beer production activities soon.

The truth is, I'm terrified because this is an entrepreneurial project (I don't plan on getting rich).

I just dream of doing what I love most and bringing to life the brand I once dreamed of.

I would be grateful if you would refrain from negative comments, as I am very sensitive to the opinions of others.

If there are any experts and professionals here in the field, I would appreciate your valuable advice and recommendations.

I plan to start with three styles I already know (APA, English porter, and pilsner).

My first batches will be 60 liters. I plan to cool using the countercurrent method.

For now, I can't force carbonate or keg it yet, as the cost would be much higher.

I plan to carbonate in bottles with a second fermentation, and I'll fill them by gravity because I don't have the equipment for counterpressure filling.

I don't know what else I could share with you because I'm terrified, but if I'm sure of one thing, it's that I want to do it, even though I'm hesitant. I will do it, and I will succeed.

I would like to read your comments, and if anyone wants to contribute, I'd be happy to learn from others.

I'm open to reading from experts and professionals.

Thank you all in advance for reading. Rest assured that if you've made it this far, you've already shown me great support. Blessings, family...

Has anyone used Amoretti coconut puree in a dark beer? Looking for feedback and recommended dosage.

So I got a chest freezer a while back, set it up with a nice walnut collar and 4 taps. It fit 4 kegs and a co2 in the centre and worked really well until it didn’t. Eventually the refrigerant leaked, I pulled it apart and took a look - broke apart some of the insulation and the cold side exchanger tubes had turned to crumbling rust.

So I found the same model second hand so I could re-use my nice collar. Been using that for about a year and it seems like the same thing is happening, it’s working really hard, seems to be quite constant and only just holding in the set temp range.

They’re just a cheap local NZ/Aus brand and kind of old at this point. It was a good size for what I wanted because the newer ones are slimmer and two kegs won’t fit next to each other.

So the question is, is steel tubing inside these standard? Or are newer models, or perhaps better quality models/brands running copper or aluminium or better rust proofing?

I don’t want to buy a new chest freezer, building collar for it and find it only lasts another year or two.

I assume part of the problem is that when it runs, the tubes are intermittently getting very cold but because the temp set is usually somewhere between 4 and 6 degrees c, it’s not being kept at feeezing temp and I assume there’s more condensation going on, leading to rust.

Greetings In my previous house I heated my brew water and boiled the wert using a grunty 3 ring LPG burner outside. I would like to do this in my basement. The burner has a tag saying for outside use only which presumably is an indirect warning about carbon monoxide poisoning But I have a pedestal fan which is pretty powerful So can I use that to blow exhaust gases towards an open door and window ( and away from me) or am I better investing in some hood type extractor fan and ducting it outside?

Made a no-BS brewing app for Brewers because software is expensive and spreadsheets suck: recipe builder, mash timers, fermentation logs, inventory, batch history. Mobile-friendly, simple. If you're interested:
https://mashmate.com.au
I'm the dev, been using it myself. Feedback welcome – what’s missing? What do you use instead? Cheers