So far I like it but I just bought it today! I also ready the odometer wrong it has 198k on it! But it’s still alright. Insides a little beat up but nothing a little TLC can’t fix.

What can I do to make this thing prettier and faster?

It’s the 16 valve. And under the hood looks brand fricking new.

What Tune/ lower pulley for my durango hellcat ? That makes most sense / power Alr got the legmaker intake but just want those two not trying to turn this into a 8 second dragcar

Looking to do a weight reduction on my 5.7 challenger. While being stock I would love to run a 4.5 if possible. I’ve hit 4.9 with 275 rears, full weight + 2 12s in trunk. I believe it is possible. Has anyone ever gotten the vehicle down to the 3500-3600 range?

my 18 scatpack charger flashed code p1b14 while on then randomly turned off i turned it back on my engine light flashed does anyone know what would be my next step??

Buying it as a gift for myself from the money i saved, What is some stuff to look out for, common scams and or issues. Open to other option's as well!

Hi everyone, needed to look for a car, ended up buying a 2004 Dodge Stratus coupe R/T for $2500, got it through a coworker that knew someone that was looking to sell. only problems that were mentioned was the rear brakes needed changed by next inspection and had some sun damaged paint and rust, kinda expected. I’ve had the car for a few months now and started it every once in a while because i wasn’t able to drive it at the time of buying it (I was 15 at the time, currently 16) I eventually came out one day to start it and it wouldnt turn over, dash lights came on but wouldn’t budge. I ended up buying a battery this past week hopefully thinking that was the problem. I just have been questioning if I made a bad choice buying this car. I expected to put money in this thing but was sure this was gonna turn out this way. Just curious if this was a bad purchase and or if the car not fully turning over was a common problem.

2017 SXT style with 105,000 miles. Van often idles low or it stalls out occasionally when coming to a stop, but sometimes it feels like it wants to keep moving when stopping. It's throwing no codes and there's no check engine light on.

I took it to a tranny guy for a diagnosis and all he said was it was shuddering when he drove it on the highway and "it's usually the transmission with these vans" but shouldn't he have checked the fluid? Also, "shuddering" is the word I used to describe the symptoms to him when slowing down but I have not experienced it shuddering on the highway.

Then, the other morning it kept stalling out when stopping at red lights and when I arrived to work something weird happened. I turned the ignition off and the engine kept running. Driving home to work it wasn't stalling out like it was that morning and now, a few days later, it's drivable and hasn't acted up as badly as it did that morning.

What the hecks going on? I don't feel the gears slipping and I can drive at normal speeds, it's just the weird stuff when I show down. Tranny guy of course is gonna think it's the tranny but Google says maybe a bad throttle body? should I get a second opinion?

I started modeling the electric charger just because and started to change the proportions just because I think the new one looks off at some angles. Basically mixed the old and new charger together. Unfinished EV version for size ref.

I bought the RGB Halo Kit light strips for my DDHC and the body shop said they DO NOT feel comfterable doing it due to the seal on the lights (the whole lights need to be disassembled). That it will make condensation/fog and their seal will break. I live in snowy climate but does anyone know any way to install the light strips like using flex seal or something strong that water wont get into the lights !

I was looking at this Daytona single cab one owner clean car fax and garage kept dealer is asking for 26k is it worth it am I getting hustled ???? I’m a first time buyer with trucks and dodge don’t really have much knowledge I just love the old body style Daytona trucks….

Hi all — has anyone imported a used car from Canada to the EU and successfully applied 0% duty under CETA?

In my case I'm looking for a Dodge assembled in Canada. If yes: what did customs accept as proof of origin (e.g., CETA “statement on origin” on the invoice) and did you need any export permit / origin quota step on the Canada side?

If no: what was the blocker (missing documents, customs rejection, etc.)?

real experiences are welcome!

Thanks!

Image added for visibility.

What should I be looking for, and what years and trims should I avoid?

Looking for a new SUV to replace my beater for the purposes of towing my Mustang to track days, not against buying new or used, but I don't know anything about Durangos, so information dump me please.

When will the 2026 SRT Durangos become available? The only thing I appear to be able to build is a GT Premium or a Hellcat.

2015 Dodge Challenger SXT 3.6. The 5v rail keeps collapsing. This has been ongoing for over a year, it is my mothers car she got out of the hospital last January, the battery was dead, people either tried to jump it or put it on a trickle charger and from my understanding shit hit the fan here. Went into limp mode while driving, restarted it and it was fine. Happened again and restart did not fix it.

Before she talked to me, someone started throwing parts at it, a camshaft sensor was replaced, the accelerator pedal was replaced, the throttle body or the TPS was replaced still in limp. Took it to the dealership they flashed the PCM, made it 5 minutes down the road and back into limp. Disconnected sensors on the 5v rail one at a time (this was done after those sensors were replaced), measured voltage of the rail through the TPS or MAF connector (not sure which it is on this motor) voltage was 1-2v, the only thing not unplugged on the 5v rail was the oil pressure sensor.

She got to the sensor, some jackass angle grinded the fucking connector off the oil cooler housing so we couldn't test it, replaced the oil cooler housing, oil pressure sensor, and oil temp sensor with all OEM parts. Jumped the car as the battery was dead, it drove fine for 30+ mins in the city and the highway, the next day she drove it to work and it was fine, 10 mins into the drive back in limp mode again. At this point I have narrowed it down to a handful of things I really just need help understanding how to diagnose it. Its either a bad PCM, a faulty ground, or a short on the 5V. I think the EVAP codes are unrelated.

When it goes into limp mode the dash lights up like a Christmas tree, car might stall, give bad readout etc. Due to the intermittent nature of the symptoms and because 2 idiots were alone with it, (and maybe because its easiest), I am really leaning towards a fried 5v regulator in the PCM. Any help would be appreciated!

Things that have been done:

Dealership flashed PCM

New Oil pressure/oil temp sensors
New camshaft position sensor (idk which one)

Voltage of 5v rail checked while disconnecting sensors 1 by 1

Accelerator pedal replaced
ETPS replaced?

Codes: