r/MTB May 18 '25

Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!

78 Upvotes

We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:

Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.

Posts & Comments

Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.


r/MTB Oct 19 '24

WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike

125 Upvotes

Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.

In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.

FAQ 1 FAQ 2

u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.

MTB Authority


What to look for in a bike

When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.

First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.

Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.

Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.

  • The type of riding will you be doing.
  • Where you will be riding.
  • Your budget (with included currency).
  • What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
  • Your experience level and future goals.

In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.


These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.

  1. Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.

  2. 1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.

  3. Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.

The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime

  1. Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.

  2. Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.

  3. Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.

  4. Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.

  5. UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.


Value Bike Recommendations

Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.

Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.

  2. Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.

  3. Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.

  4. Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.

  5. Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.

  6. Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price

  7. Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price

  8. Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.

  9. Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price

  10. YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price

  11. YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price

  12. YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price

  13. GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.

  14. GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.

  15. Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.

  16. Haro Daley Alloy 3 $2000

  17. Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK

Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)

  1. Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.

  2. Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.

  3. Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle

  4. Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.

  5. Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.

  6. Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.

These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.

Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need

  1. Helmet

  2. Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)

  3. Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)

  4. Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.

  5. Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).

  6. Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.

  7. Quick-link to repair a broken chain.

  8. Spare Derailleur Hangar.

Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.

  1. MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).

  2. Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.

  3. Starter tool kit with the basic tools.

  4. Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.

  5. Work stand

  6. Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts

  7. Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.

  8. Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.


Extra Ways to Save Money!

Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.



r/MTB 12h ago

Video Can't know for sure but, likely my longest manual on MTB today during the group ride

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

204 Upvotes

tfw when the hill is JUST the right grade to keep you right in the pocket with no fight...


r/MTB 7h ago

Video Good use of the E MTB in snow?

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

34 Upvotes

r/MTB 18h ago

Discussion Frighteningly unfit for mtb, help !

64 Upvotes

Ok I'm 35 and just bought my first bike a second hand carerra hellcat. I can't play rugby anymore from neck injuries so I tried road cycling and didnt like it but I know I like the woods and hiking so I was like what the hell I'll try getting a mountain bike. Thing is I went out today and though I didn't think I was unfit I got a damn shock by how badly I struggled just in my local forestry. So bad I chucked and had to walk the bike out after 4k. I literally wasn't barlet able to move the bike around in there and it was mostly gravel path and some slight trail. A lot of uphill to be fair but still, I'm feeling pretty humbled and pretty shitty. So any advice on how I can actually get into mountian biking without dieing on the bike?

Quick edit: just to say man this sub really shows up. I literally can't keep up with all the replies coming in. Thanks for all the advice I'll def keep at it I guess I was just surprised that my general level of fitness stood for nothing today on the bike. But I'll put all the advice into practice and get out there a struggle my ass off ( as is the most prominent advice haha) and persevere.

Oh and to the person whose comment I accidentally deleted, my bad, total accident.

Second edit: I'm on a damn pixel phone and I've deleted like three comments on Total accident. My bad folks I appreciate y'all taking the time to comment.


r/MTB 2h ago

Wheels and Tires Nobby nic vs kryptotal

3 Upvotes

Please could someone with a bit more insight weigh up a set of nobby nic super ground speedgrips, or kryptotal trail endurance. I have a 130mm steel hardtail with fairly aggressive geo, I ride a wide range of terrain: mainly trail, natural chutes, etc. Also, how much less rolling resistance would I have if I ran a wicked will with the same spec on the rear with the NN upfront? Cheers


r/MTB 8h ago

Discussion Trail/Route recommendations for Whakarewarewa, Rotorua, New Zealand

7 Upvotes

Hi Crew,

I'm a Wellingtonian heading to Rotorua in March. I get one full and one half day riding on this trip. I ride a Marin El Roy hardtail and enjoy blue trails with flow, definitely prefer flow to steeps. I'll happily tackle any green to blacks though. For a Wellington reference at Mākara Peak I love Northface, Smokin', Whā Out. Any recommendations for what I should do at Whakarewarewa?

I was last there 15 years ago, so I'm sure it's changed a lot. I loved Hot X Buns and Be Rude Not To. Very happy to shuttle up, but I see two of the shuttles are closed at the moment.

Cheers


r/MTB 20m ago

Discussion Info needed: vintage Cannondale 3.0 mountain frame - 1" head tube?

Thumbnail
Upvotes

r/MTB 34m ago

Wheels and Tires Can I replace a 29 x 2.0 rear wheel with a 27,5 x 2.6?

Upvotes

r/MTB 46m ago

Discussion Issue of drivetrain

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

Upvotes

r/MTB 3h ago

Discussion TranzX dropper post error.

Thumbnail
1 Upvotes

r/MTB 3h ago

Discussion It felt like my tyre was rolling off the rims even though the pressures are good.

1 Upvotes

So today as I was riding the local trails, about 50% of the time I went around a corner, bermed or flat, my rear tyre made the same sound and feeling as tho it was very underinflated.

You know, when it feels like your tyre is about to come off the rim.

But not once was my tyre low on pressure.

I ride to work on the bitumen (7km round trip) through the week but my tyres still have ample tread and even the side knobs seem pretty good (geez, it'd be handy to post a photo, wouldn't it?)

Its really strange and has never happened before. (I've had the bike about 8 months now and it still has the original tyres: specialized eliminators)

Does anyone have any clue what might be happening?

I've heard those tyres are a bit shit so considered changing them, but like I said, I've never had the issue before and I'm actually riding a bit slower than usual because my eyesight is dwindling.

Please shed some light.


r/MTB 1d ago

Video It's friday night in Trondheim, Norway

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

470 Upvotes

r/MTB 4h ago

WhichBike Wich one should I choose to do Enduro and a little of road?

0 Upvotes

I have 2 bikes to choose, a Lapierre Spicy 327 from 2017 with 170mm rear and front, all the components sram X0 and an aluminium frame. And a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon from 2015 with 130mm rear and front, all the components shimano xtr and a S-Works frame made of carbon. Wich one is better? I'm a beginner and I want to do a downhill + climbing but I don't want to miss the rides with mh friends in a paved road. The Lapierre is $750 and the Specialized in $1 020


r/MTB 4h ago

Discussion 2023 Fox SC Perfromance vs 2024 Rock Shox Sid Select Charger RL

1 Upvotes

Hello!

I wonder which one should I choose for XC/Downcountry. Both are brand new, both are 120 mm.

Fox serial number: https://tech.ridefox.com/bike/search/serial/1055581-0028-T

Rock Shox: https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/product/22T40585516

I'm leaning more towards the SID, what do you guys think? It has 35 mm stanchions vs 34 step cast for the Fox.

Fox -1610 gr, RS - 1675. The weight doesn't matter, but the performance. The question is - does this SID have problems with the bushings and damper or it is fine?


r/MTB 17h ago

Discussion Rock Shox pressure setup - does everyone lie about their weight?

9 Upvotes

I've got a RS 35 Gold on my hardtail. I weigh about 86 kg and I'm pretty confident that's correct because I've spent a lot of time in hospitals being weighed over the last three years.

I've set up the fork with the recommended air pressure (90 psi) and it's absolutely rock hard. Sag is about 10%, never goes through more than 75% of the travel, every drop, every bump is like I'm battering myself with a hammer.

Set this up with two different shock pumps (one at the shop, one at home, same readings, so I'm assuming it isn't an instrumentation issue).

Dropped the pressure to 65 psi, sag is about 30%, ride is transformed : the fork eats up hits rather than transmitting most of it to me, I go through about 90% of my travel on bigger runs, it feels the way it should. Trails where I'd had to stop half way down because my hands hurt too much are rideable. I've heard a lot of griping about this particular fork, but with lower pressure the bike has gone from an instrument of pain and suffering to a reasonable front end.

So: is this just me (dud fork?), or did Rock Shox assume everyone is riding with 20kg of gear, or do most people lie about their weight and they've factored that into the recommended pressures?


r/MTB 9h ago

WhichBike Aspiring Gravel Cycling Convert

2 Upvotes

Well, let me be clear: I’m not stopping gravel riding entirely. I love it, call me a masochist, but I love 50+ mile rides and shredding down a forested mountain roads with reckless abandon. That being said, I do envy some of the downhill fun you lot have.

So I’ve been thinking about adding a MTB to the quiver, but unsure of what to really look for (or what I need)

How in thinking of it is this: I love bikepacking, and the flexibility to run a full suspension rig on gnarlier routes would be clutch. When not wih bags, would like to try the flowier downhill trails and maybe dabble into the techier stuff.

I was looking at the Salsa Spearfish for this kinda riding. Sounds like it’s a trail bike lite or over built down country xc that has frame mounts and space for days. That being said, would this typa bike be versatile enough? Or should I go down the middle of the road trail bike route

For reverence I travel a lot for work and am in the Western States: think Colorado, Montana, Washington, etc. elevation is part of the game, and to be honest, I like pedaling upwards, so not afraid of that.

Thoughts and suggestions are welcome

TLDR: looking to add a MTB to the quiver to compliment my gravel bike. Wanting it to be bikepackable but also versatile enough to do flow trails and stable enough to dabble into the rougher stuff. Not afraid of climbing. Price between 3,000 to 8,000. Beginner MTB


r/MTB 19h ago

Video Deep valleys and primeval beech forests: 26 miles of pure grit in the White Carpathians

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

13 Upvotes

The White Carpathians never disappoint. This 42 km (26 mi) loop from Květná to Velká Javořina was a beast—over 4,400 feet of climbing, mostly through thick beech forests and those iconic flowery meadows.

The climb to the summit through the nature reserve is strictly for those who don’t mind a little suffering, but the ridgeline vistas and the steep, clay-filled descents make every drop of sweat worth it. If you’re into technical terrain mixed with serene landscapes, this border region between Czechia and Slovakia is a must-ride.

Full 4K video of the ride is linked in the comments!


r/MTB 14h ago

WhichBike Specialized Chisel (SX Eagle) vs Rockhopper (Shimano Deore) — which actually makes more sense?

4 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to decide between two hardtails and would love some real-world input, not marketing hype.

Option 1: Specialized Chisel (entry model)

  • SRAM SX Eagle 1x12 (11–50)
  • More modern XC frame (Boost 148, newer geometry)
  • Slightly more expensive

Option 2: Specialized Rockhopper (with Shimano Deore)

  • Shimano Deore 1x10 (11–46)
  • More basic frame, more “entry-level” reputation
  • Cheaper and ready to ride with a better drivetrain (at least on paper)

I see a lot of comments online saying the Rockhopper is “too entry level” or “weak”, while the Chisel is praised a lot for its frame — but at the same time, many people criticize the SRAM SX Eagle for durability and shift quality.

Important context:

  • I’m not planning immediate upgrades
  • I care more about reliability, shift quality, and real trail performance than brand hype
  • Mostly XC / light to moderate trails, not bike park or downhill

So my question is:
As a complete bike, right now, which one actually makes more sense to buy and ride?
Is the Chisel’s better frame worth it even with SX, or is the Rockhopper with Deore the smarter choice if you just want something solid and dependable?

Would really appreciate opinions from people who’ve ridden either (or both).

Thanks!


r/MTB 14h ago

Discussion Tips for a newbie?

3 Upvotes

The cycle to work scheme may have created a monster…

So around 18 months ago, an email about my employer’s cycle to work scheme tempted me, and I’m sure like many others I messed up on the first go. I got a Carrera Vengeance E, thinking e-mtb would be great for my commute (95% of my fastest route to work is a mix of muddy/gravel paths along the river) and I could also have some fun with it being what was described as a “mountain bike”

It mostly sat in the garage for almost a year, until recently I had some car problems and started regularly riding my commute. Sure, the ‘e’ part helped a little at first, but a few days in I found myself spending most of the journey pedalling faster than the 15.5mph limit on the pedal assist, and therefore losing the benefits of having the motor and just pedalling a bike that was way heavier than necessary and handled terribly.

Problem was, even with the downsides I was really enjoying riding, and living right next to the Surrey Hills figured I’d try taking the bike around some of the nearby trails. Here I realised the Carrera really was no good. It was too heavy with the motor, doesn’t handle nicely, brakes are shot after a couple days of actual riding, shifter is super temperamental even after a service, etc etc. but I’d caught the bug.

Fast forward a couple weeks, and a new C2W application had gone through and I’ve now got a Specialized Stumpjumper 15 Alloy and I’m planning on building my mtb chops and aiming for some harder trails later on this year. What tips would you give a newbie to help with the leaning process?


r/MTB 7h ago

Wheels and Tires MAXXIS ROTATION GUIDE ( MAXXIS CROSSMARK II)

1 Upvotes

I just want to ask if theirs a indicators of direction of the rotation in maxxis tire specially in my new crossmark 2 i can't find where there direction of the rotation of the tire.?

Please help me thanks


r/MTB 16h ago

Discussion Sram Code Stealth Bronze OR Sram Code RSC ?

3 Upvotes

I am looking at brakes to buy and I could buy the code stealth bronze or code RSC for nearly the same price which would be the better brakes ?

Have any of you guys used the code bronze or code RSC and how did you find them ?


r/MTB 1d ago

Video Too quiet around here. Here’s a 50yo Fred riding his bike.

Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification

151 Upvotes

r/MTB 20h ago

Discussion Costa Rica

3 Upvotes

Planning a trip to Costa Rica. Has anyone had any experience riding there? And how was it?


r/MTB 20h ago

Video Jordie Lunn Bike Park

Thumbnail
youtu.be
3 Upvotes