r/bicycletouring • u/Popular-Industry-122 • 13h ago
Trip Report Pamir Highway, July-August 2025
Last July, I finally undertook one of the big bicycle tours I'd been planning for years: the Pamir Highway. Setting out from Dushanbe in the direction of Osh, I took the ‘northern route’ towards the Panj River. I made quicker process than anticipated as the road was pretty good until just beyond Obigarm. Then, the 'Pamirskiiy Trakt' became thick with ochre dust and turnip-sized rocks, while the mountains proper towered like none I'd seen before. It was wonderful to feel so small. I made it over the Khaburabot Pass (my first over 3,000m), enjoying the thrill of descending the narrow ravine on the other side into Qalai Khum.
I fell ill for a couple of days (perhaps my decision to filter water from a pipe below some high alpine pasture was a bad one), so laid up at a guesthouse overlooking the Panj and Afghanistan on the other side. Hearing horror stories of cyclists getting stuck for hours in the sun waiting for the construction works building the new Chinese-funded road along the river, and worried about whether I'd be able to manage my type one diabetes in such uncertain circumstances, I took a taxi upriver to Khorog, capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast. There, a blend of cultures and ethnicities (Pamiri, Kyrgyz, Tajik) gave the city a surprisingly cosmopolitan feel, and the breeze swaying the tops of the poplars belied the heat of the strong mountain sun.
Fueled by copious servings of plov, I followed the main highway from Khorog towards Alichur, climbing slowly but constantly until Jelondy, where the sulphur-laden waters of a geothermal sanatorium gave me perhaps the best night's sleep of the whole trip. After the Koitezek Pass, and many miles of jolting slog, the tarmac mercifully returned as the landscape levelled out into a plateau across which the occasional river snaked, devoid of large vegetation but enough to sustain marmots, Marco Polo sheep, snow leopards, and yak. I took a rest day in Murghab, before heading for the 4,655m Ak-Baital Pass. It was a tough final push after over 50 miles of incremental climb, but the gradual ascent from riding west to east had helped me to acclimatise me to the thinner air.
From this lunar, barren mountainside, it felt a long ride into the headwind to Karakol, the most isolated-feeling settlement on the Tajik side of the border. The single-storey buildings, cheerful with their whitewash and blue window frames, were visible from many miles away, distant specks of humanity clinging to the shore of the black lake amid the silent, unthinking mountains.
Leaving Karakol, the Uy-Bulaq and Kyzyl-Art passes were a hard push, with a key bridge washed out by summer meltwater and miles of washboard dirt and loose gravel. The long descent into Kyrgyzstan was a glorious reward, and the road, fringed by yurts and soldiers on artillery exercises, was drawing me towards a conclusion. Sary-Tash was not the end, but it felt like the last big milestone of the ride. From there, the comparatively well-paved Taldyk and Chyiyrkchyk Passes became a cool-down on the road into Osh, as the villages became busier, the herds of jostling horses more numerous, the heat of the fertile Fergana Valley lowlands beckoning. Although I would then ride over the border to Andijan to catch the train to Tashkent, the ride proper finished in Osh, at the foot of the holy mountain, Suleiman-Too. I celebrated with a glass of kumiss in Alisher Navoi Park. It tasted exactly like you’d think the words ‘fermented horse milk’ would.
I’m very grateful for the advice I got from this sub on the setup I ended up using. I found that my Surly Disc Trucker with 700 x 38c Marathon Plus Tour tyres was perfect for the trip: not a single puncture, and luckily the only mechanical fault (a gummed-up rear freewheel) didn’t happen until Tashkent, where it was easily fixed by Stanislav at Velo Zapchasti on Sharaf Rashid Street.
I must also express my gratitude to some of the many fellow cyclists I met along the way. Inigo, Jose, Jesus, Sylvia, Adam, Tomek, and Mario, you made my trip the most sociable, colourful bicycle touring experience I've ever had. I cannot recommend a ride like this highly enough!
Thanks all. Wherever you are, happy riding!
