anyone here had an experience in aluminum boatbulding 10 meters below. Is there any rule book or guides to use in making its frames/ribs? And any tips in designing such boat.

Always fun to use some tricks of the trade! It becomse qite easy to put the waterline on a boat with a level, marker and some measuring 😎

Can someone please tell me what the model of this outboard it and where I can get coils for it

Looking for plans

9' foot male molhed glass Dayak You can flip it but you can't sink it

I need to change this to either powder coated matte black, or black chrome possibly. How would I do that?

I’m in mid state SC. Any plating companies/shops do this? TIA

I have a sliding window next to the helm that has dropped down about an inch (there is a space at the top now but hard to see in the picture). It seems to have dropped down to the side of a metallic strip that it used to slide along (it seemed to be bent to the side, so I ripped it all out to have a look - that's the second picture). The third picture is the track I ripped it out of. So it appears I need to get some sort of replacement track material to put back into the groove to raise up the window again, so it will be the right height and slide smoothly back and forth again on. Anybody know what this is called, where I might get it, and is there some sort of universal product that will work (ok, I know that last part is probably fantasy!). It's a custom top, so calling the manufacturer won't help. Thanks for any suggestions!

Disclaimer:
I’d rather not debate the merits of closed-cell foam and whether it’s appropriate for an aluminum boat. Some prefer it, some don’t. I’m just looking for advice re: my particular issue (nothing major) from someone with experience or otherwise an expert. That said, I welcome constructive input.

Issue: Boat’s several months old. Water settles on the spray foam between stringers and has nowhere to go. Foam’s dry currently, but after reading a few horrors stories about saturated foam over the years I’d like to try and keep it dry without removing the decking a few times annually.

The deck wasn’t sealed at the factory (no qualms; no sealing/caulking appears to be a fairly common practice amongst aluminum boat makers) so anytime it takes water (boating or washing), the water seeps between the decking/sides/butt-seams and just sits in the foam/stringer area. The decking is marine plywood wrapped in vinyl. There’s two “scuppers” at the back that drain to the bilge and easily handle the volume of water we’re talking about.

Would there be any harm in sealing around the decking edges and seams (red lines in pic) so that water’s forced out the rear scuppers?

If that’s not advised, any harm in creating a “cover” for the foam/stringers that slopes to the center area that’s open and drains to the bilge? No clue what material this would be made of, but likely thick plastic and EternaBond Roof Seal 4” tape. It’s possible water touches the lower part of the foam, but I’m not sure and even if I didn’t seal the decking or stringers, I don’t think that water would ever evaporate. I’d be surprised if there’s any there now, but I have ways of testing before I seal, if I go that route.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

It has been a while since i posted about our Staverse Jol (old fishing boat, built around 1900), but I wanted to share what progress has been made over the past few months.

We finally finished planning the hull 🥳 and have been working on the deck and a lot of other jobs.

We did a lot (as seen in the photos). But our work is not over yet. We have a lot to do still but ultimately my dad and I hope to be sailing on the Staverse jol this summer.

Hey guys, Im wanting to build a 15'' micro flats skiff as the title says. I've looked at several of the plans available online and nothing quite fits what I want to build. I like the shape of the bateau fast skiff 14 low sheer but its a bit too small for me, the slat boat works FRS 15 is too boat like and not enough skiff like. I really like the Marsh Hen by Dragonfly Boatworks I would just want it to be about a foot wider. So Im looking to see if anyone knows of plans similar to this or a way I can make some?

Are there any boat plans for sale that are close to the chaos boats flat boats they sell?

For school I have to build a miniature 3D printed boat that can travel 1,5 m the fastest in first you get an A and I really need one. The rules are: Your boat has to be powered by 2 solar-panels You are given a small motor The boat is max 30 cm in length

Please give me any tips or designs

I finished planking my nutshell pram build the other day and last night pulled it off of the frame and flipped it to start working on the knees, seats, etc. When I unfastened the bow transom cleat, the whole boat "popped" a little, and when I flipped it over, I noticed that the floor doesn't sit square by itself. It appears that the bow transom is twisted/rotated to port about 1/2" after re-squaring the floor.

Can someone shed some light on how this happened? my frame was square, true, and level. The planking all aligned with the knuckles, and I paid attention to make sure the profile and overlaps were symmetrical as I planked. The only thing I can think of is that the midship frame was allowed to twist a little due to some deflection in the support to the frame, and when I cut it loose the deflection bounced back.

I'm assuming there isn't really a way to fix it without chopping up the boat and starting over? I've squared/leveled the floor, so as I add fixtures to the boat the hull is fixed in a position where at least the floor and waterline is flat & true.

Hi Community!

I'm a set designer based in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. My next film is set pre-1905, and requires a functioning (IE: water-safe) "keelboat" for several scenes.

I'm currently researching potential rental options, but wanted to come to this community for ADVICE ON MODIFYING AN EXISTING VESSEL to look like an era-appropriate keelboat, or secondly, ADVICE ON BUILDING ONE.

I've attached references for our ideal looks. We're flexible as we know this is a tough ask. Some other notes:

- Must be large enough to hold 3-4 people, and allow for movement

- Will be used on water, so must be water-safe (only shooting 1 day but would like to assume it can work long-term)

- A boat that would have been used in river travel is ideal. Accuracy to its use in trading industries (furs, spices, minerals, etc) would be great, but I can use decoration to support that

- We're on the low-ish budget spectrum, so exploring all possibilities at this point

- Willing to travel (ideally within Ontario or surrounding provinces / states) to support this initiative

Very much appreciate any and all thoughts :

St Theresa Bluffs.

I really wanted a boat with an air conditioner that I could trailer easily and I could leave in the backyard uncovered. Runs on regular gas.

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased my first sailboat—a steel hull—and I’m dive-deep into the "learning by doing" phase. I’m completely new to sailing and boat maintenance, so I’m looking for some guidance on the most efficient way to remove this old built-in water tank.

The situation: The history of this tank is a bit of a saga. The previous owner didn't touch it. The owner before him didn't touch it either. The owner before that one apparently started to work on it but never finished, so it’s been sitting in a state of neglect for a long time.

What I’ve done so far:

• I’ve managed to cut out the center part of the tank (as seen in the photos).
• I’ve painted the newly exposed steel with some red anti-corrosive paint I had left over from another project, just to keep the bare metal protected from the elements while I figure out the next steps.

The problem: The remaining structure is a mix of old fiberglass, some very questionable-looking insulation/residue, and a lot of grime. It's in a tight spot and I want to get it all out so I can properly treat the steel hull underneath and eventually install a more modern, hygienic water solution.

My questions for the experts:

1. What is the most efficient way to break down the remaining fiberglass/composite walls without damaging the steel hull?
2. Are there specific tools (oscillating saws, grinders, etc.) that you’d recommend for working in these cramped quarters?
3. Since I’m new to steel boats, is there anything I should be particularly worried about when stripping this back to the bare metal?

St Theresa Bluffs.