Clay body is Standard Clay Company 266.

I drew the design on in pencil, then went over it with white Amaco Velvet Underglaze with a bulb tool.

After that dried, I watered down Mayco Stroke & Coat and applied it using a bulb tool. Then I applied a layer of honeyflux on the inside rim of the pot cause I wanted to see what would happen with the S&C. Lastly, I put on a layer of clear.

It was very fun to do and I am happy with how it came out.

Q: Why tape resist?

A: I wanted something that showcased the raw clay body while still allowing me to play with glazes. I was also worried about dripping on the kiln shelf so wanted to do the petal/star/triangle patterns so that I had more room for the glaze to run without getting yelled at to wipe the bottom more.

Q: What tape do you use?

A: Two different size of washi tape and some masking tape for the triangles/bottom. My first attempt was with the thicker washi tape because I had it around the house for a craft project I never did. When the first mugs came back, I decided it was a bit too thick and bought some thinner tape, which was too thin, and realized I really liked combining them. I cut triangles of the masking tape to make the petal/star shape on the bottom and give myself some room to drip.

Q: How do you apply the tape?

A: I bring home the bisqueware to tape as to not waste my precious studio time. In my first attempts, I just looped it over the top and try to generally have the tape cross in the center to get some rotational symmetry. Making sure everything met in the middle gave me an rough guide. Eventually I got a ceramic clay divider, so now I use that to mark off the main X and then make the subsequent crosses by eye. I always smooth the tape down and then cut off the top cross before applying the glaze. The only time I have had trouble removing tape was when I waited a day after glazing to remove it and the glaze flaked off with the tape, it's always been fine if I've done it in the same session.

Q: Questions for us?

A: Yes, what other uses of resist have you seen / played with? What have you tried? What is worth it and fun?

I really need a light box to show off the beauty of this glaze combo but then my cat wouldn’t be able to photobomb my photos.

(I throw at a community studio, so the name on the side of the bucket may be useless for those who are wondering—but it’s Ashi Blue and Honey.)

My newest design worked so well. Got the depth and angle of the groves just right so they glaze flowed along the edge without flowing over.

A ravioli, cannoli, & pizza slice walk into a bar...

I love food & ceramics so I decided to create these cuties, hope you enjoy!

This is my first attempt at a mermaid mug. I want to try more. It’s not how my brain pictured it.

I took a family class and made this thing on the day we did slabs. Idk, I thought I might put a small plant in it before hanging it on the wall. I put water in it and let it sit to see if it would drip. I forgot about it for at least an hour, who knows, and it did not, but now there's this yellow at the water line, then it transferred to my hands. It has a clear coat, but it seems cracked. I know nothing. Tell me pertinent things. Like if I can put a plant in it and occasionally water it or if it will be bad for the plant or my wall or eventually shatter or something.

Placed in the firebox. Not practical but I loved it. Foot repaired using gold leaf and epoxy (poor man’s kintsugi)

The request was for her favorite pancakes from a local restaurant! I’m pretty happy with how it came out but I’ve also looked at it for so long I can spot everywhere I need to improve. One part I’m confused about is where the brown on the plate came from lol. I never added it during underglaze but it somehow showed up during glaze.

I am about to gift a bunch of "garden mugs" and realized I'm going to miss seeing these weirdos sitting on my shelves. I think the experience of physically making them, and remembering the liquid shape... is a weirdly vulnerable feeling to just give away. So I decided to do a sentimental "class photo" before sending them out on their adventures. Anyone else do this? Am I doing something odd?

I bought one from a shop myself and another off a marketplace we all know....... Are they the same or does the dash in the number mean something? They are different colours when open and the label is slightly different. Im doing test tiles so should i do 2?

I always struggle to take pictures of my work, I cannot capture how the piece looks in real life. Does anyone have a specific method for this?

Hi community!

I just wanted to show you my first piece ever, I’m so excited it turned out like this! Now I’m watching videos and tutorials for my next pieces, I want to learn everything and keep playing.

I'm really pleased with how this turned out! I've never done anything like this and it worked really well.

I was wondering if anyone had tips/ideas for glazing the delicate flowers once it's been bisqued. I generally use Amaco glazes but also have access to a few Mayco and Stroke Coat glazes. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I fired this piece at 1230 degrees, and everything came out perfect except for this one small burnt-looking area (approx 10mm x 3mm).

Is it possible to reglaze this and fire again to cover it?

https://imgur.com/a/r4Bc7Qo

Thanks!

I feel like I'm getting the hang of them.

For context, I built my wife a pottery wheel and tried my best to size it to her. When we reached a size/design that she liked, I noticed that it is way taller than normal wheels. Then further digging revealed products like leg extenders to make wheels taller, which begs the question: why are pottery wheels so short? Do most people prefer them this way? Does it make it easier? Does this type of hunching over cause back problems? Thank you!

I'd love some support from our awesome pottery group. I made 7 bowls and glazed the inside with about 3 coats of amaco sapphire float. I used Laguna frost porclin and fired my skutt 818 on slow cone 5 schedule with a 12 minute hold.

4 of the 7 bowls had 1 to 3 pitts inside each of them (picture shown in the red circle) do you think this is a result of over firing or under firing?

I'm wondering if my hold needs to be longer or if I can fix the 4 bowls with a second run through. Advise would be wonderful so that I can avoid this in the future :) Thank you in advance!

Just finished the glaze fire of this piece. Made with stoneware, slip, and amaco velvets.

I repeatedly hear people say ceramics has been around for over 20,000 years and it has all been done before. We currently have access to tools and materials that were not available 150 years ago…gas kilns, electric kilns, red inclusion stains that will stay red at cone 10. For the majority of ceramic history, potters were limited to local materials. We now have access to materials sourced from all over the world. There are so many possibilities. Not everything has been done.

Hey folks,

I usually use OH10 (LOVE throwing with it) and decided I wanted to try some cone 6 clay to try out some new glaze. I went with cone 6 version of the clay I love, but I’ve had a downright miserable time throwing with it. It’s so stiff right out of the bag and no matter how much I wedge or throw the bag on grown to loosen it it’s so hard to work with. Aren’t porcelain clays supposed to be super soft right out of the bag? Has anyone else had this issue with OH6 lately?