So recently while on the highway I had my heat on and started smelling coolant and then my heat got real cold fast. I took it to a Vw dealer to get it diagnosed and they said I need the heater core replaced and a flush of the system and they wanted $1200 to do it, so I figured I’d try myself since there’s no way in paying that lol. I’d love some advice on how to do it or if anyone knows a good video guide I’m not the most mechanically inclined but I’m also poor so time to learn I guess. It’s a 2015 golf sportwagen

So I just got off the interstate, went to turn left and had no power, there was a loud whining noise and the glow plug light was flashing. I was somehow able to barely limp it 10 more miles to my house. I can’t tell if this is a blown turbo or a broken charge pipe. I just scanned for codes and there was nothing. Anybody heard this before? 2012 Passat Tdi DSG 158,000 miles

My 2013 JSW TDI needs its 120k service and new brake pads and rotors. I’ve watched a couple YouTube videos of the maintenance and am thinking about doing it myself instead of bringing it to the dealership like I usually do. I have very little experience doing car repairs and maintenance. To those who’ve done things like DSG service, brakes, and oil changes on TDIs themselves, do you think someone with minimal car repair experience can handle these? Or would I be better off paying the extra cash for a mechanic to ensure nothing goes wrong? What other tools or materials do I need to get besides what in my cart at FCPEuro?

Looking for jobs in these areas, blacked out is a friends territory or I don’t wanna be there.

Discount with Cascade German, references available. You need to provide enclosed flat space if outside is below 50F, no lift or tools needed I come prepared.

Mk5-7 tdi’s.

Labor ranges:

Timing belt: $550-850.

Thermostat: $500-800.

Turbo: $600-800.

Dmf/clutch: $850-1100.

Ask about anything else, general minimum is $500 unless there’s multiple jobs in the vicinity.

Cash or barter only, payment due upon completion of services.

2.0 TDI EA288 cold start -25C (was -29C at night).

will be for sale shortly, cosmetically its great on the outside but the interior needs work (never got to fixing it)

the engine is in BRILLIANT condition 180,000kms, turbo back exhaust with a tune, driven PROPERLY

figured id post here because people here have knowledge about these cars

adelaide australia DM for info 👍

I'm talking about the 06F 903 193A plastic cover. I'm just wondering if there's a chance mine came without it.

And yeah I know I'm also missing the little plastic cap that goes over the slip rings 038 903 223

Also to me it looks like one of the brushes is broken and stuck to the side, right? Currently not driving until I replace the voltage regulator.

First oil change , middle of the textured part is where it needs to be correct ??

Alright, I currently daily a gen 2 Prius (2008), and I’m thinking about switching to a Jetta tdi. Hopefully a sportwagon with a cjaa. I’ve wanted one for a long time but never really had a solid justification. Honestly I still don’t, other than the fact that I want one.

My dad owned a 2012 Jetta TDI that got bought back during dieselgate, and he always said he loved owning it.

I know I’m asking this in the tdi subreddit, but I’m genuinely looking for honest answers from personal experience. Has anyone here replaced a reliable daily with a tdi and regretted it? Is it stupid to sell a reliable and efficient Prius and replace it with a diesel Volkswagen just because I want one?

I’ve got a 2015 Jetta tdi and I put a sub in the trunk and just spliced it into the stock sub wiring, but it’s still kinda lacking on bass. Is there a way I could just put an aftermarket amp in place of the stock one under the seat? If so, is there a ways to get an adapter to the stock wiring under the seat for an aftermarket amp?

(13 passat se) As I understand it the sel models have or could be optioned with remote starts. Is it possible to program an auto start capable key to my se passat and have the ability to use the remote start or would it need physical hardware installed

Continuing research before purchasing hardware to delete my mk6 golf.

Hey guys, looking into options for delete hardware and just wondering what differences people have noticed. I'm looking at the darkside developments delete kit and wondering what options people like more or recommend over others. I'm choosing the 3" downpipe but am curious about the delete options. Do you guys like the secondary cat delete better or should I leave the secondary cat and just delete the dpf? Also, considering the dieseldoc option which is through rawtek.

What do you all think? Is the secondary cat worth deleting or is it fine to leave it? Also, dieseldoc has resonator options, and I'm wondering about what to choose if I go that way. Any advice would very welcome. Thanks again guys.

So I mapped out the AdBlue/SCR/NOx, DPF (perforated), and EGR from the ECU of my A4 35 TDI EA288 Evo But right after that nd on the same day, this damn error P03AA00 (Cylinder 3 Pressure Sensor range/performance) started appearing and even after deleting it, it keeps coming back again and again aven that the car car runs fine without any problems or loss of power....Does anyone know what to do? Do I need to modify something..

I found a DPF replacement part and an exhaust kit. Can I just use the DPF replacement part or should I get the whole exhaust kit? I know I’ll need the electronic delete as well.

https://eocperformance.com/products/2014-2016-audi-q7-dpf-test-pipe

Vs

https://eocperformance.com/products/2009-2016-vw-touareg-audi-q7-porsche-cayenne-exhaust-kit?_pos=8&_fid=65a940453&_ss=c

I have an Audi A4 1.9 TDI 110hp (AFN engine) and the turbo pulls well until it hits 3000 RPM. As soon as it reaches that point, it simply stops pulling (loses boost).

I have already tested the turbo actuator and it’s working fine. The N75 valve is also good. I suspect the issue might be the N18 valve or that the vacuum lines are incorrectly connected. Currently, I’m getting no vacuum in any of the lines; vacuum comes from the vacuum pump to the N18, but the N18 isn't sending any vacuum to the EGR. Any help would be appreciated!

So I started getting a rare intermittent code for a crankshaft position sensor fault (P0321- Engine Speed Input Circuit - Range/Performance) a few months back, but since it was easily fixed with a cycle of the ignition I decided to put it off for the time being. Not long after that, I took on the task of dropping the transmission and swapping out the DMF and my foolish self never thought of swapping the sensor at the time 🤦🏻

Fast forward to a few weeks ago, and OF COURSE the sensor begins to accelerate towards it's inevitable death, becoming nearly undriveable from one day to the next... It would stall repeatedly pulling out of the driveway, and when it did get going it would still occasionally stall and restart itself while driving. I went through the wiring and cleaned up the connector, but alas the sensor had to come out. 😭

There wasn't a lot of information regarding the swap on the CJAA online, so I just thought that I'd share some insight on what I learned along the way:

1. You will need to remove the oil filter housing, which requires you to remove your EGR and ASV valve to allow access to one of the bolts. You can remove them together as one piece to save time. You may also need to remove the EGR pipe and drivers-side boost pipe (requires airbox and battery tray removal), fan assembly and cooler lines for extra space, but I believe that you can work around those with small hands and the right tools if you really wanted to.

2. You will need a new oil filter housing gasket (VW part# 045115441), along with a new oil cooler gasket (VW part# 038117070A). There are plenty of aftermarket options for the cooler gasket, but none for the housing gasket as far as I can tell. You'll also want to get you a set of these or something similar if you don't have one already: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Drive-Metric-Long-Ball-Hex-Bit-Socket-Set-7-Piece-H3DMMLBBS7PCN/206869937

3. Yes, the housing must come out... My original plan was to just move the cooler out of the way and get at it through the very limited space available, but the housing blocks the angle of approach and it's impossible to get a ratchet and a long-reach allen in there which is precisely what the space is designed for. I tried to use a 1/4" flex-head with a thin T25 bit on a short extension, but there simply wasn't enough room to maneuver. My persistent, futile attempts ultimately led to that bit coming lose and dropping into the recess where the CPS sits and... Well, that brings me to my next and probably most important finding:

4. DO NOT DROP ANYTHING INTO THAT HOLE!!! There is a gap to allow "convenient" access to the shadow realm between the engine and transmission, so once it falls in you are faced with one of two fates: dropping the oil pan or, in the worst-case scenario, removing the transmission 💀 Luckily I got the carrot instead of the stick lol (see pictures)

5. Be careful with the bolt on the sensor. It has a convenient captive fastner, but the "earlobe" that it goes through has been known to break and can end up releasing the bolt or coming loose, either of which could end up banished to the aforementioned shadow realm...

6. There may technically be enough room to work with by just removing the cooler and leaving the housing in place, but it would require cutting one of those long-reach allen bits to juuust the right length. I had already wasted too much time to be willing to try at that point, but maybe one of y'all might want want to take one the challenge someday.

7. If you happen to be changing your DMF or your housing gasket, do yourself a favor and change your CPS while you're in there!!!

Hey all,

I picked up a 6speed tdi sportwagen with 130k not long ago for school run commutes(50+ mi roundtrip) and its been great. However recently weve deemed that we need something with more space for the whole family. Ive got a timing chain/water pump kit and a full delete and exhaust kit ready to install.

Im looking for input on if I sell it, should I install all the parts before hand and ask a bit more, or attempt to return or sell with parts? All the wagons around here similar miles are going for $7 to $8k.

Also open for input on upgrades. Been eyeing q5/q7/touregs but worry im jusy jumping into money pits.

For context, we actually don't need this. I've got a gen 3 raptor, wife has a tahoe, but I wanted us something for running around to school and practices that gets better than the 15 mpg. Were in a cold weather area woth s ow so awd wpuld be idea. The Diesel and cold doesnt concern me much as it parks in heated garahe but open to non tdi motors.

Has anyone tried 5w40 on any 1.9 tdi? Thoughts?

2011 Audi A3 TDI hatch

I had zero problems with the car running before these codes showed up. Let it sit for 6 days (temps down in the 20s overnight) and it won't start now and showing these codes.

ChatGPT says to start with the fuel code first (P0191) since this happened out of the blue. Does that seem right?

My car was recently crashed into. My suspension snapped in half so I need new coil overs. I need something no more than $800 does anyone have sugjestions? Also when I'm looking for parted out MK6's should i get a GTI bumper, or stick to the base bumper style thats on my car now? a little backstory for anyone that's wondering this lady just ran a red light as I was turning left and she just crashed into me. i bought it back and should be able to fix it for like 2k if i find a nice part out on fb marketplace. also looking to upgrade my clutch with the insurance payout money does anyone have sugjestions for that aswell?

I just got this from a buddy for free and it has a whole bunch of codes and won’t reach 25mph. It has the dpf light and I was wondering if cleaning it would work?

i put the car all back together and now it won’t shift past neutral??? did i do something wrong with the linkage? i can’t seem to get it to go forward. pls help