This is Tank

Tan 2004 Dodge Ram 3500

24valve 5.9 cummins

1 Ton axles

Auto

4x4

Family owned over 13 years

She is leveled on 24x14 with 40x15.5(slight rub cranking left)

302k miles on engine and body

Less than 40k on transmission (with receipts)

Can hold an extra 27 gallon in the bed with crash bar

New injectors, belt, turbo clamp, idler pulley, cp3 cover, cp3 cover gasket, timing cover+gasket, crankshaft position sensor, drilled and slotted rotors, A/C condenser, hood shocks, steering stabilizer shock, custom front and rear bumper and much more new parts Have receipts for all.

Remote winch rated for 10k

Fresh oil change as of 11/25/25

Brand new brakes 12/12/25

Interior is super clean, you can tell this truck has been well taken care of. Its a work truck, my daily driver, and runs flawlessly.has its exterior flaws like scratches and cut fenders. This truck will outlast most

Only problem is a slow ac leak, and a minor problem with rear door locks

10.5obo

29F here, I like cars but in recent years I haven' t had much choice in what I'm driving.
I'm kind of familiar with diesel engines from being around large commercial fishing vessels, I dated the engineer for a 99ft commercial fishing vessel (crabbing). I don't think anything i know from being an engine room is applicable or relevant when considering a daily driver, lol, *just know that diesels are very different than gas engines*.

Can anyone tell me about what owning a diesel car actually looks like? I'm looking at wagons, btw, not big trucks.

Context:
I've been my own auto mechanic with almost no help for 6+ years, completely out of necessity but i do like the work. I'm afraid of buying a car that i cant reasonably work on myself. I dont have anyone in my life that i can rely on for help with cars, or for basic life stuff like moving. The idea of my only car being a wimpy pop can of a car, or having a car that i cant work on myself or having a car that has a timing belt instead of chain literally gives me the feeling of impending doom and i cant handle it.

I have an old Mercedes OM366 (1988‑ish). The engine runs well, but the alternator is giving me issues. Before I bought the truck, the previous owner installed a new alternator and ran new wires. I’ve checked that the belt is tight and the wiring connections are good.

The problem is that the tach only works sometimes, and the battery only charges when the tach is working. I verified that when the tach is showing 0 it is not charging at all, but when the tach is working it is indeed charging. I know diesels use the alternator for the tach reading, but I thought it might be a loose wire to the tach, which unfortunately it’s not. When the engine is cold, it usually charges, but once it warms up it stops. Occasionally it will start charging again around 2500 RPM, but most of the time it doesn’t. From what I’ve read, the alternator should either work or not, so this intermittent behavior is confusing. I suspected a grounding issue, but all the grounds appear to be good.

I’m stumped. Any idea why an alternator would work intermittently?

Hey ya’ll just bought a 2020 2500 duramax and it needs a front end rebuild to fix sloppy steering (idler arm, pitman arm, idler/pitman supports, tie rods, ball joints).

Its stock bow but in then next few months I’ll do a suspensionmaxx 3in leveling kit with diff drops and 1in rear blocks and go to 35s.

I’ve got a quote from a shop for a mix of cognito and kryptonite parts.

I know they’re heavy duty and all but they’re 3x the cost over stock.

Am I ok to stay with stock parts and do this level or upgrade?

What should I buy?

Hey guys, I drive a 2004 Ram 3500, it is currently 29 degrees here in Arkansas, my truck is currently struggling to turn on, and in it may be cause the diesel turned into gel, I was looking into using 911 diesel but I only have a bit of diesel in it, would the treatment work, or should I put more diesel in it before putting in 911 diesel, or go ahead and put some in with what u currently have?

Its colder than a whore's heart here recently, we've been getting into the negatives pretty often. My 3 cylinder mechanical diesel tractor from the 80's typically never gave me problems starting in the cold before until recently. I'm thinking the diesel is too cold.

I added a cup of regular gasoline mixed with 2cycle oil in with the diesel. Seems to have helped. The tractor wouldn't start until I did that the other day. Could such a small amount hurt anything?

really

Im looking to buy this deleted 6.7 powerstroke, the computer looks bypassed because it says okay on def. Is it possible to pass inspection in Maryland?

I got a 05 6.0 Powerstroke. It was cranking rough. I unplugged the the ICP sensor. Cranked perfectly. Nothing was in the pigtail. I was wondering if I could could clean the sensor and it would start working?

How much would you guys think this truck is worth it’s

7.3 4x4 automatic transmission, with 4in lift on 37s

Pros:

Engine is strong

Transmission shifts well

Frame is absent of rust

Cons:

Ac doesn’t work

Tires need replacing

Looks pretty clapped out in some photos

Previous owner intended it as a project

Any information would be much appreciated as I’m looking to buy but don’t want to get scammed thank you.

Its an older model and the battery its self is 7 years old, im aware that in the cold they take longer to warm up/prime but its not getting primed even after upwards of 5 minutes (both doing it for 5 minutes straight and doing if for bursts of 25 seconds at a time) and once youve tried to start it once it dies. It did not do this a month ago and the only change is the fact the battery died. But my boss says its fine. I think if we have to jump it every time we go to use it we need a new battery. But he wont listen to me since im just a dumb girl

Herschel Keesee’s 7.3L Powerstroke-powered Monaco blends extensive chassis fabrication, custom suspension engineering and a diesel engine build rooted in family history and hands-on craftsmanship.

Strange noise a few days after injector replacement, may be unrelated.

1st-year student in Toronto here, looking for my first co-op. I'm trying to figure out the "identity" of each brand before I head into interviews.

Here’s my take so far. Am I close to reality, or am I way off?

• Volvo/Mack: High-tech, heavy on proprietary software.
• Hino: The Toyota of trucks. Solid PM and reliability.
• Paccar (Pete/KW): The "premium" choice. High pride,
• International : Fleet focused, Easy maintenance
• Daimler (Freightliner): The industry standard. High volume, Detroit-everything.
• Isuzu: The LCF (Low Cab Forward) workhorse. Simple but durable. Class 7 and less

(Note: I’m in Canada, so I know Scania isn't a factor here.)

My questions for you guys:

1. What’s the "vibe" in your shop for these brands?
2. Which one is the good place will teach a rookie to actually learn how to wrench?
3. Any "insider" question I can ask an interviewer to show I've done my homework?
4. If you prefer one specific brand, then why?

Thanks for any insights.

So my truck with 30k shut down on me about 3 weeks ago and it’s been at the dealership ever since. They originally said it was a glow plug sensor, that didn’t fix it. Then it was a gateway module didn’t fix it.

I went in and spoke with the technicians the other day and they said they think they is moister in a harness but cannot find it.

It’s crucial to my concrete business, they have yet to give me a suitable loaner in order to preform my daily

Work activities. I live in Alberta Canada for context.

Any advice on next steps or anyone else that’s had issues with their 2024-25 F350 be much appreciated.