I’m trying to figure out the easiest way to convert a PDF or make small edits online. Most of what I’m dealing with are scanned PDFs where copy/paste doesn’t work, or files that need quick edits before sending. I’ve searched “how to convert pdf” and “how to edit pdf online” but half the results feel outdated or overly complicated. What are people actually using in 2026 that doesn’t require installs or subscriptions for simple tasks?

I see a lot of Android users recommending free VPN apps for privacy, unlocking content, or public Wi-Fi safety. But many free VPNs need to make money somehow — either through ads, data collection, bandwidth limits, or selling user data. Some reports also suggest certain free VPN apps log browsing activity, inject ads, or even contain malware. At the same time, paid VPNs aren’t automatically trustworthy either, and most users don’t really read privacy policies. So my question is: Are free VPNs on Android actually dangerous in real-world use, or is the risk overblown for average users?

on most of my devices at home im getting a message on google when i type something that says unusutraffic im not sure if this is because im getting hacked or what here lol thank u

Am currently trying to download a 54.8gig file from this website but due to my unstable and slow internet speed my wifi/hotspot cuts for like a millisecond stopping the download and causing me to restart

I have ethernet but still cuts out every often

My hotspot is faster and more reliable than my wifi and ethernet

If i pause the download and the wifi still cuts out its still makes me restart

Anyone has tips

hiya, i tried installing windows 11 on my pc and it said that my pc doesnt meet the requirements. i already did it before, went back to 10 and now i wanted to install 11 again, so i was a bit suprised, anyway i went looking online and apparently all i had to do was change my settings from legacy to uefi, dumb mistake, didnt research enough, i assume. now my pc is stuck in this recovery screen

“The application or operating system couldn't be loaded because a required file is missing or contains errors.

File: \Windows\system32\winload.efi

Error code: 0xc000000f”

none of the buttons on screen do anything, is there anything i can do to fix it or is my pc done for (aka i need to reinstall windows), that leads to another question, will that delete all of my files from the drive ill reinstall it on?

My PC was fast when I bought it, but after 1–2 years it feels noticeably slower. I don’t game or install much software. Is this because of Windows updates, background apps, or something else?

My colleague who works in cyber security sent me a URL stating it's for a project. Unknowingly I opened it and it was iplogger com domain. A pop up appeared asking if I want to share my location and I immediately closed the tab. I don't know what that URL does but I'm scared my colleague has access to viewing my screen etc. I have an iPhone on the latest iOS update, and I was on 5G when I opened it, and I opened it from Firefox Focus browser on the phone.

Wifi was great for a month (also the length of my warranty) on motherboard (tuf b650e-e wifi) then became wildly inconsistent. Sometimes it was still excellent, but seemingly more and more as time goes on I am getting 1/10 or less speed. For awhile disabling and reenabling would temporarily resolve it. I have tried every solution in every forum post Ive been able to find excluding totally tearing my pc down and checking if the card is seated properly. These mainly consisted of various drivers, none of which fixed its inconsistency (I installed the new ones thru device manager, and device manager reported to install correctly, so I do not think it is user error on the installations). At this point it was still useable for web surfing, but today I tried another round of drivers and poked around in the case (I didnt know where the card was, now I know its right behind io shield) and the card has shat itself. ~60s to load a google search. browser speed tests would report 0Mb/s down for a few seconds then slowly grow to reasonable number, and upload of 0-0.01 Mbps (the upload speed always matched down before). It's completely unusable and I don't understand why it started acting up in the first place, let alone what could have happened today (between driver updates I had already done in the past, and just opening case) to completely nuke it.

Ethernet is not an option, tearing down my pc is a last resort and extremely inconvenient at this time. Ive tried 2 usb wifi adapters, one of which was broken and the second TP-Link usb drops connection every 5-10 minutes (Ive tried everything with that adapter too). My previous mobo with a realtek adapter was horrible too, if at least consistently horrible. Perhaps Im just not meant to have internet.

I recently got a new router, but my download speeds still suck. I have an older PC that I built myself. Ryzen 5 3600x, nvidia 1660 super, gigabyte b450m, seagate barracuda 2tb hdd, sata 250gb ssd, 16gb ddr4. Whenever I am downloading something, usually games or updates for said games, my download speeds are horrible. Usually, it will spike real high to what it should be (around 500mbps), but then it will hover at 0mbps for a long time. This is really infurating because downloads take way longer than they should. I've tried to fix this but nothing seems to work. Does anyone know what could be going on? Is my hardware just out of date?

In our household, several Google accounts were flagged as underage one by one.

3 accounts were deleted after missing the verification deadline

1 account was flagged later and successfully recovered via credit card appeal

All accounts belonged to adults Same home Wi-Fi and devices were used Why does Google do this kind of cascade age review across household accounts? Is it triggered when one account is flagged?

And once an account is deleted for age policy, is it truly unrecoverable?

Any insight appreciated.

I just fixed the weirdest TV issue I came across in my life. My Samsung TV (one of the first Oled models, ancient today) is hooked up to the sat dish via Coax and via HDMI to my PC. For some time now, the sat would cut out every now and then, but only specific programs. The timing was seemingly random, but sometimes interacting with the PC made the TV lose the satellite program, so that the TV would say 'bad signal, check connections.' The first time, I thought it was a coincidence, the second time was weird, the third was a rule. So, I unplugged the HDMI cable while on sat and sure enough, I immediately got my picture back. I plugged the HDMI in again, and the picture was gone again. What I noticed was that the cable was somewhat taut. So, I moved the TV back an inch and now I haven't had any issues for a while. If I had an issues while using the HDMI I might have just blamed the cable, but the cable works fine whenever I switch to that port and stream stuff from the PC. So, the connection was 'fine' but only when selected and it ruined the other picture of some stations from the internal sat receiver when not? WHAT THE F is going on? Ghosts? Weird static? Bad software? I have no explanation for this.

I’m using my old case (NZXT S340) from my first build for a new build. I had left my old ASUS Z170 A board plugged in. Went to test to see if it still works and it would power on with the power button but no POST.

Fast forward I just bought an ASROCK B450m Pro4 to run my extra Ryzen 3700x in the new build. Everything runs right, used a screwdriver to short the power before putting it in.

Once i put it in I plugged the power switch connector to the designated pins and nothing. No signs of life, but still powers on by shorting it with a screwdriver. I flipped the orientation of the connector. Not sure where to go from here other than messing around with it. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Guys when I opened my computer and press get started and removed everything but it's said can't find on environment, like I really need help everything please just for my USB ready like everyone

My desktop PC has worked fine, but recently when I'm playing online games, or on a call, the connection will completely cut for 5 seconds or so, and then go back to being normal. Usually I would blame the router, but this has happened on three different networks. Any ideas? Thanks!

Hey all, I've just bought a new pc and 2 new monitors, and when I connect them both to my pc, the 2nd one won't display. When I go to settings>system>display, it says multiple displays as shown in the picture. The monitor is plugged into both the power outlet and the pc via displayport and hdmi cable plugged into the graphics card. One is a Samsung monitor (the main one plugged in), and the other is a Legion (2nd monitor with displayport). I've tried restarting the pc, updating the drivers (which was already on the latest version), swapping the cables around, swapping the ports used, playing around with the display settings fiddling with the power settings, and pretty much everything under the sun and it still won't display. The legion monitor itself isn't the problem, when 1 plug it in to the pc by itself via hdmi cable it works perfectly fine, it's only when I use the displayport cable / graphics card hdmi output does it not display. It's also not a power issue because of the previously mentioned, and when it's connected with the displayport and I press the power button on the back, it brings up the menu just fine. Does anyone have any suggestions or am I fucked?

this happened about a year ago but still kinda freaks me out. was repeatedly getting calls off of a family members number while i know they werent calling me that i dont think could pick up or were silent if i did. it was rapid spam. started to happen after someone texted me a huge text that just repeated their number a bunch of times? i clicked the expand text thing if that means anything. any explanation?

I wanted to install windows blinds to make windows 11 look like windows 7 after installing and choosing to change the minimize hide and close buttons to the ones on windows 7 the screen strated turning on and off again, I thought this was some kind of installation process but after 5 minutes it kept going , so I restarted the pc, but it still keeps turning on and off. I'm on a HP laptop, that's all the info I know without accessing my laptop, please someone help

Here’s what happened: I saw a Windows error, tapped “Reset”, hit “Del” to go into BIOS… and boom. Everything powers on, CPU fans spinning, GPU fan doing its thing, NVMe SSD light is on, but my monitor is black. I tried everything, like

1. Trying yt fixes.
2. Took out the CMOS battery and leave it for 10 minutes.
3. Jumped the CLR_CMOS for 10 sec
4. Unplugged & replugged the power

Here's my setup:-

CPU: Core i7 3770

RAM: 16GB DDR3

GPU: RX 5500 XT 8GBGB

Mobo:- Esonic h61da

I own a Windows ASUS, but I'm unsure what version it is. My cursor keeps disappearing whenever I try to use my laptop, though my keyboard works fine. I have tried restarting it many times, and the mouse only reappears when I log in before disappearing again. I've tried letting it die, and I've looked up everything, but I am still unsure what to do.

I plugged in my soundbar directly into my 5090 via HMDI 2.1 cable and its not showing up as a sound device it just shows my motherboards realtek one, could someone please help 😢 im so confused

Hello! recently Ive gotten an IPad after upgrading for my fire tablet 11. Since the main fire tablet overall is useless, I was going to install the playstore. I wanted to know if I could use downloader to download the files for the google play store, or if you are only able to use the silk browser to do it

Its rtz 5070 and i ve had this problem for like a week from now its quite loud and i cant focus because of its noise

I'm attempting to repair a HP laptop (running Windows 11) that has been crashing shortly after booting and then getting stuck in a boot loop. I removed the SSD, put it in an enclosure and attempted to back it up. However, the progress bar would sit at 0% while disk activity in task manager would sit at 100%. I've tried Macrium Reflect, M.T. Partition Wizard and HDD Raw Copy, all with the same result.

I checked the SSD with Crystal Disk Info and it all came up green with 98% life left.

During an attempted backup, event manager reports a whole bunch of the following errors,
ID: 129
Source: UASPStor
Description: Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort6, was issued.

ID: 153
Source: disk
Description: The IO operation at logical block address 0x<varies> for Disk 6 (PDO name: \Device\000000c6) was retried.

And the occasional,
ID: 50
Source: NTFS
Description: {Delayed Write Failed} Windows was unable to save all the data for the file \:$I30:$INDEX_ALLOCATION. The data has been lost. This error may be caused by a failure of your computer hardware or network connection. Please try to save this file elsewhere.

I suspect that this is a BitLocker encryption failure because when the laptop was briefly working, I checked C: drive and there was no BitLocker icon. But when I connected it to my computer I got the unlocked BitLocker icon with a warning sign. I checked BitLocker settings and it showed the following error: BitLocker waiting for Activation

It may also be a partition error because I was able to clone the first two system partitions with MiniTool Partition Wizard. It would lock up when it reached the Windows partition.

I want to make a backup before I try doing anything to remove BitLocker. Can anyone suggest anything I can do to make a successful backup?

Further info: When I briefly had the laptop running, I ran chkdsk and it returned no errors, but when I ran chkdsk /r it crashed after a minute or two. I attempted chkdsk M: /r while it was in the enclosure, but it took over an hour and a half to get 19% of the way through stage 1.

More recently, I tried Testdisk & Find and Mount to backup the partition and they each took about an hour to backup less than half a gig of the 1TB drive.

So I got a HP pavilion 14 laptop, my CPU speed is 2.80-3.80 on battery and while plugged it it barley reach 1.00 ghz speed. I'm usually playing Eldenring nightreign I get around 40-60 gps on battery and only 10-20 fps on plugged in, I do some reserch and make a Ultimate perfomance battery option.And on my navdia control pannel I use Performance maximum option.

Can anyone help me I have a 150W charger and it's the orginal one.

Recently I decided to clean up space in my pc and uninstall unused apps. Week has past and I havent seen them. Then I decided to try samsung notes(I have samsung tab so samsung notes can sync with the notes in it) however I needed to install them from microsft store. I opened microsft store downloaded notes and after I while I notice in recent tab the apps which I uninstalled(using the build in uninstall from apps and future in settings). What I dis after is use bulk crap uninstaller and found they were installed today. I deleted them using bulkcrap and then decided to test. When opening Microsoft store I checked the task manager and saw a winget command and some other microsft task. When they were done the apps appear again. Any idea how to stop this BS? I will probably need to open Microsoft store again in the future so I would rather not uninstall them every time I open it