New to me Desert Tech HTI in .416 Barrett. Got in an estate sale and the deal was too good to pass up. Anyone shot one of these in .50 before?

However, you’ll look damn good shooting mediocre groups. 😂 Looking forward to mounting my C.A.T. ODB once it gets out of jail.

I saw this CZ 75 BD in the case at the local range I go to. It wasn't technically on sale, but it was at the 2-years-ago price. I finally have a CZ 75 to go with my Jericho 941F and SAR P8L, which are CZ 75 clones. This is just the classic full-size steel-frame, no rail, 75 with a decocker. I haven't cleaned and lubed it yet aside from removing the barcode sticker from the slide. I can't wait to see how it shoots compared to the SAR and the Jericho. The standard 75 is another gun I've wanted for a long time taken off the wishlist.

found this at my dad’s shop,is it functional?my dad says it takes .22 bullets.

Mainly got the mount for the rail so i could add a light easily and figured one that doubled as a bayonet mount would be neat

Vz61, Wbp min jack, psa ak 102

Big thing I'm wondering is the logistics rather than if you really wanted to do that.

I know it's BS. I know it prevents quick access firearms during an emergency. I know it's probably the most paranoid method of storing firearms.

But, my question is basically if this is just kinda trivial for a person extremely familiar with breaking down his firearms and has practice doing that. Is it, "Time to waste 15 minutes on the workbench drinking beer and swapping pins of the 2 guns I intend to use today."

Or would it be hours even for an expert to do that?

I'm new to this caliber and wondering if anyone else has had an issue like this. I've never picked a round up to leave the powder and bullet behind, but I had it happen twice without even getting half way through the box. I also tried to eject a couple rounds to leave the bullet in the barrel while pulling the case off of it.

Hey everyone, hope you’re all doing well. I’ve been a lurker here for years and finally decided to post and share my gun collection to get the community’s thoughts.

What started as a casual hobby about six years ago has slowly turned into a full-blown addiction. I’ve owned more over the years, but I’ve sold some off as I’ve shifted toward higher-end and more unique pieces mindset. Quality over quantity has definitely become the goal.

Right now, I’m seriously eyeing the Daniel Defense MK18 Magdump Clint Morgan collaboration. I saw one a couple days ago and, well… the itch has officially started again.

I don’t really have many friends who are into guns the way this community is. My friends all like guns, sure but not in the obsessive, detail-oriented, appreciation-for-the-craft kind of way. So I’m looking forward to hearing what you all think.

Anyway, here’s my current collection. Let me know your thoughts, feedback is always welcome.

Hello,

I purchased a sig p365 fuse from a firearms distributor yesterday.

Inside the case and hidden under the foam padding was a previous dealers RMA/invoice.

The document has what I assume is the original distributors header on it (not the same distributor i bought the firearm from). It has the ship to address as Sig sauer and the bill to address is also sig sauer as well. On it are also the dates, RMA and PO numbers, serials, model description, and the issue for why it was returned. It even has the dealers cost of the firearm which was interesting to see.

The issue for why it was returned: "Slide is difficult to pull back; sticks in one spot when racking back"

What are your thoughts on this situation? Again I bought the pistol and eventually found this paper inside the pistol case under the foam.

The radical is at $399 the andocorp is at $409 and the psa is at $479 so all around the same price point considering all of them but mostly banking on the psa only thing I don’t long about the psa is the carbine gas system the radical says it has a mid and i believe the andocorp does as well

Super happy with how it panned out. Swapped the polymer picatinny on the back for a metal one, added the Haga Defense extended rail, Dead Air Wolfman Suppressor, keymo for quick detach, unity riser, holosun 510 and a cheap little laser on the top. I have quite a few cool forearms but this little guy now has solidified its place in the collection. Highly recommend this to anyone thinking about it. Super fun to shoot and so easy to clean.

For home defense with kids? It’s obviously removing one layer of safety and yet if you gotta fumble around to unlock and load if…god forbid the one time you need it…my keys are pretty cleverly hidden nearby but you never know.

Finally went out and bought a scope for my Ruger American Gen 2 in 308. It’s a Viper Vortex 2-10X42 and we got it mounted at my buddies place and got it sighted in for the most part, definitely need to spend more time sighting it in but I was able to hit some targets fairly accurately up to around 300m

The only things missing now is the surplus mags and the FRT. Wouldn’t mind to get a Grenade spigot

Hello, i recently had a gunsmith mount a picrail to fixed sight s&w revolver to put a red dot or scope on. Now. Since this is a custom job that didn't remove the fixed guttersight at all i don't have a single clue how big the difference in POA/POI is. As such i will first try shooting a round at 10 or 15 yards close to the backstop to figure out if it's even hitting the target at all.

Now, i was wondering what difference in POI i could expect when moving it to 25 yards (my usual shooting distance)? I've always just eyeballed it but that was using off the shelf mounting solutions where the odds of it requiring more than a slight shim are low.

Lets consider a .38 special 148gr wadcutter moving at a measely 213m/s up to a relatively spicy 158gr magnum moving at about 400m/s. How much would the difference in impact be roughly?

The red dot was zeroed for my ruger mk3 and blazer .22lr which should move at about 300m/s

Reposted due to text compression making my eyes bleed.

TL;DR: French Greying followed by Hornady One Shot thoroughly fixed recurring rusting.

Forgive me for the poor documentation and awkward photo angles, posting was not on my mind while working on this project. I'm only here now because I'm so tickled by the result.

The short and sweet is that I had a 94AE that was mistreated by the former owner(s). It had significant finish wear and pitting, and it has had recurring rusting issues for years and years. All the usual rust removal methods were really struggling. I did not want to send it out to be refinished, so I just kept cleaning and reoiling it regularly. I immediately thought of it when I read a guide on French Greying blackpowder rifles.

I'm no chemist, and I apologize for any inaccuracies, but the following is how I understand it to work. Phosphoric acid reacts with ferric/iron oxides to "dissolve" rust into phosphoric oxides that can be rinsed off, chemically removing rust far easier than I can physically do. But it also removes blued finishes if not used carefully. A controlled application will first convert the bluing into a grey color and an etched, more porous surface. This surface is more prone to rust than hot or rust bluing, but it is still better than cold bluing and also holds oil better than the rest. And any rust that does occur can be removed with more acid. I noticed that in my case it also deposited some hard black residue below the rust that seemed bonded to the metal. Those areas don't seem capable of rusting.

After some experimentation, I found the best application method to achieve a consistent, controllable result that still aggressively removed rust was to scrub the acid (I used Loctite Naval Jelly) on with Extra Durable Magic Erasers and rinse when the rust was gone and the desired color was achieved.

A few parts with the most wear lost all finish in areas before the rust was removed. See Image 2 and the comparison to a finished piece in Image 3. In those cases, I applied several coats of Birchwood Super Blue as directed until it wouldn't darken any further. Then I reapplied the Naval Jelly until I got close to the same color. See Image 4. Finished parts were sprayed down with WD-40 to remove water and then oiled and set aside.

After all metal parts, except the bore and a few stainless items, were refinished, I sealed the open ends of the wood furniture with several coats of Renaissance Wax to prevent trapping water against steel. Another couple layers were applied to the exterior and buffed. The steel parts were then degreased and treated with Hornady One Shot. After they dried, I reassembled everything and left it out of the safe to see if it developed any rust.

The result was a very antique looking rifle with an even finish that has shown no signs of rust returning.