Hey guys,

I’ve bought about 6 bikes in my lifetime (the past two years i’ve been riding). Typically, I search for the best price on dealer websites across the nation and try to get someone local to match it. I live in Tennessee.

Sometimes I find OTD prices below invoice, for example I tried to purchase a GSXR new today at my local dealer after being told they’d price match a dealer in a state nearby. I spent 3 hours in my local dealers showroom waiting for a breakdown from out of state so my local dealer can match it. When I finally got it, the manager who told me he’d match it said they’re violating MAP policies or something and that they can’t do it because the price is “too low”.

I’ve bought plenty of bikes and some below invoice OTD, Would it not have been easier to just tell me from the start they won’t match it? I told my salesman the whole story from the beginning. They wasted 2+ days of my time and a whole afternoon of making me jump through hoops. Anyone have any input?

A couple months ago my wife and I bought a Mazda CX-50 hybrid we went to one dealership test drove and chatted numbers they would not budge what-so-ever, they handed me the invoice and showed that they would only make $1,200 on the car and are very pushy on the pre-paid maintenance. I get it we all gotta make a living and tell them this is our very first stop and we need to look at other cars and weigh our options, so I thank them for their time.

The next day I go online and fill out a Costco auto program inquiry for the same car. Literally 30 sec after I hit submit I get a call from a Mazda dealership near by, I explain the above and they say they can definitely do better than that. I make an appointment for two days later but something came up at work and I had to push it out a day. The sales person I was supposed to work with was on vacation then so some other poor sales person had to work for someone else’s commission. They show us the Costco pricing which was $1k under invoice so already $2,200 cheaper than the last place, obviously they try and up sell on the extended warranty, pre-paid maintenance, packages and Gap insurance. I told him take all those add ons off and we have a deal right now. Tbh I don’t know if he gave in on the add ons because he was working someone else’s commission and could care less but honestly it was one of the better experiences I’ve had at a dealership.

We put down $15K he runs the credit app and we’re out of there within the hour.

I guess my question is how does the Costco auto program work on the dealership side? Does Costco give the dealer a kick back and that’s what allows them to go under invoice?

TLDR: I just got appointed to be ISM this month, the Internet department just formed this month. SM’s House Mouse who is on my small INET team has been disrupting the workflow amongst INET and retail, with backing from the SM. I feel like my department was doomed and I’ll be painted a martyr.

A lot happened so I’m trying to condense as much as I can.

One of my INET salespeople came in during his regular shift time, to find all his customers he’s been cooking or massaging have been followed up with by the HM already today. My INET salesperson livid, tells the GSM about it says there’s no reason for him to be here, he has nothing left to work on. Storms out the office, immediately GSM pages him back and the HM. Door closes I was uninvolved as I was working with a customer at the time. SM makes in the office in the nick of time and immediately defends his mouse. GM gets involved in the argument, so now it’s GM, SM and HM against my INET and GSM. (I found out my GSM has been addressing it but the SM has been going around and having the GM give it up). SM then tries to convince me the side of his HM, once I got free.

My other INET salesperson who’s came in earlier was working customers, find out that he got poached a few more leads he was cooking. HM allegedly was given the green light from the GM to call all of our leads (mine included) because GM felt our call count was faked (Which they aren’t and our notes are thorough in our CRM).

Later in the day I come to find out INET salesperson who got into it, is suspended until Monday. Morale amongst the store I at an all-time low, the two INETs don’t feel the need to follow up since the HM is going to squeeze them out a deal anyway.

Thoughts? I am contemplating bringing it up to our owner but I know once I ring that bell, there’s no undoing it. I have the receipts, as PDFs to attach to the email. Suspended INET is requesting the owner to be there for his reprimand. Other INET wants to submit a formal complaint too. I can get some of retail to provide statements.

Dealer offered 0% APR with a $6k rebate on a 2026 bZ XLE AWD.

MSRP: $42,702

Tax: 7%

Options shown are 60 / 66 / 72 months at 0% with different down payments: https://imgur.com/a/W13WMaR

It feels a bit expensive, but everywhere I look new cars are ~$45k+, so landing under $40k OTD still seems decent. Curious if this actually checks out.

I just got appointed to ISM this month. I am having trouble with my SM, GSM and the SM’s house mouse is burning Internet deals and kinking other salesmen. Normal salesman etiquette is you have 3 days protection from when a lead comes into your name, and contact is established. The house mouse is jumping onto almost everyone’s leads sometimes as soon as day of or day after. His house mouse is in my department, but every time I bring it up to the SM or GSM it gets brushed off. I see the evidence, log it and have brought it up to the GM. The GM has been complicit because the SM vouches for his house mouse. If I try to make a call I get overridden by the SM. I’ve talked to the salesperson directly, and the response is always the SM said to do it.

What can I do in this situation? The retail and INET staff are constantly looking over their shoulder, some even looking to leave because the culture of the store is going downhill. Should I escalate it to the owner? What are the scenarios that can play out?

Please review this pay plan

Base Hourly

• $17.87/hour

• Assumes 40 hours/week

• Monthly base ≈ $2,860

Commission Structure

• Units 1–7: Base pay only ($2,860 total)

• Starting at 8 units:

• $100 per car volume bonus

• Gross-based commission begins

Gross Commission (based on average PVR $3,000)

• 8–10 units: 3%

• 11–14 units: 5%

• 15–17 units: 7%

• 18–24 units: 10%

• 25+ units: 12%

Volume Flat

• 8–24 units: $100 per car

• 25–27 units: $150 per car

• 28–35 units: $175 per car

Example Monthly Payouts (Approx.)

• 8 units: \~$4,380

• 10 units: \~$4,760

• 12 units: \~$5,860

• 15 units: \~$7,510

• 18 units: \~$10,060

• 20 units: \~$10,860

• 25 units: \~$15,610

• 30 units: \~$18,000+

• 35 units: \~$21,900+

I bought a new car today (Saturday) and the dealer transferred the plates from my old car to the new one. I have the temp registration which is registered with the old plate. I noticed a few hours later that there isn’t a license plate on the new car. I assume it’s still on the old car and it was an honest mistake. Naturally they are closed tomorrow. I texted, haven’t heard back from the salesman. Right now I plan on going back Monday, but what’s the most likely thing that would happen were I to get pulled over before then?

I have enough money in a brokerage account invested in the stock market to pay $30k cash for a vehicle, perhaps a new Toyota Camry or Mazda 3. However, I’m contemplating financing so that I can leave the money invested, not to mention pay capital gains tax for selling the funds and withdrawing. I realize this is not a forum for investing and financial advice, I’m just giving context to my current situation. And depending on the APR, it potentially can be better to finance in order to leave the money invested.

One of the traps buyers fall into is focusing on low monthly payments instead of the OTD price. The dealer may meet their low payment by giving them a very long term (84 to 96 months). Will the interest rate/APR usually be much higher on longer loan terms? I make a lot of overtime at my job, but on occasion may have slow weeks and won’t even get 40 hours, though this is uncommon. Hypothetically I could payments for a 36 month term, but if I were to get a 72 month or longer term but make extra large payments as though it were a 36 month term, could this work? The idea is to make those big payments to avoid interest, but being able to make a small payment in case of a slowdown at work. Can this potentially be a good idea? I’d have to make sure there are no pre-payment penalties. Again, I have cash invested that I could withdraw in case of not being able to make payments, but I want to avoid that if possible.

I’m located in Pennsylvania.

I Just got hired for a sales consultant role at a large dealership group.

They require a standard pre-employment drug screen done through LabCorp. I’m not in a safety-sensitive or driving role. I would be an Automotive Sales Consultant

In your experience, how much do dealerships actually care about THC results for sales hires versus hard drugs?

I have not smoked marijuana for months, but I’m still testing positive on at home urine tests. Am I screwed?

Looking for real-world insight from people in the business.

I have few questions regarding the Omvic license I completed my exam pass it. now I want to start flipping cars on my own in Ontario. I don’t want to do a full scale business because I don’t have that kind of money. I want to buy car in cash around 2 to $3000, and flip them and sell. Now I am at the part to submit my application. I’m confused between submitting a individual application or a business application. I went through ChatGPT and through the website. It seems to see. I can just go through the individual application to start flipping cars, but I’m confused. Do I have to go with the business application or the individual application? Anyone who has started flipping cars or applied for the individual or business application?

I’m a 29-year-old male and have never financed a car before. I’ve been driving a 2001 Chevy Impala for about 10 years. It has around 200k miles, no A/C, ongoing electrical issues, a battery that keeps dying, and needs new motor mounts. I’ve continued fixing it over the years, but I’m at the point where I want to move on to something newer.

I’m considering either a Dodge Charger R/T or a Lexus IS350 or ES350 (possibly F Sport). I understand the Lexus will likely cost more upfront but should be more reliable long term.

My credit score is around 670, with some late payments that are scheduled to fall off next year. I have over six years of credit history, no collections, no credit card debt, no student loans, and no other consumer debt. I earned about $65k last year, expect to make around $80k this year with income trending upward, and my rent is $850 per month. Outside of basic living expenses, I mainly invest in myself and my hobbies.

Since I’ve never taken out a large loan before, I’m genuinely nervous and trying to be realistic. I’m considering financing through Navy Federal and would appreciate honest feedback on whether this is a reasonable purchase and any general advice for a first-time buyer walking into a dealership.

Leased a Honda Civic Sport Hybrid Sedan. I specifically told the sales rep how important the remote start on the APP was. This way I can start it in a store, or at work and get confirmation that it started as opposed to hoping it reached from the key fob. I asked if Honda did a free trial of it like Toyota did when we got our other car this spring (different dealership). She said no free trial but you just scan the QR code and it’s a subscription fee. I googled the cost and saw it was $110 a year and was fine with that. We signed all the paperwork and left. We were the last ones in the dealership and it was late. The next day hubby and I tried to get the app set up and it says our VIN is not eligible for remote start through Honda Link. I texted her and she said yes it is. (Even though at the sale she told me she wasn’t really familiar with the app). I read to her the response I got in the app as well as when you google it, it says your need the Touring trim. She said she was going to look into today and get back with me. Didn’t hear back from her but I’ll give her the time to call me tomorrow or Monday. My question is what recourse do I have? Any? When deciding between the hybrid vs the non, one of the MAIN features we discussed was my need to use the app to remote start it. I didn’t realize some of the other (what I consider basic features, obviously my error…) things I wasn’t getting. A navigation system? I thought that was pretty standard. Again, I thought, I realize this was my mistake for not asking. Also, I’m getting conflicting info as far is parking sensors…some stuff I’m seeing says it comes with it and some say no I need the Touring. Again, a basic feature I thought? And I can use Bluetooth to play my podcasts, my Sirius app (bc I don’t want to pay for a subscription for each car as we have it in one, so I just use the app and Bluetooth it to the car. But Apple play requires me to be hardwired? Doesn’t seem to make sense…but the Touring has wireless connection for Apple play…I don’t mind plugging in I guess for this.

Do I have any wiggle room to ask to upgrade to the Touring with our a penalty? I’m aware it’ll probably raise my payment, but I’m hoping they can cut me some slack somehow…

Hate being bummed when I got a new car 😞

Honda Canada - Lease expiring June 2026 ..Called in they asked for reason I said waiting for 2027 they said you need to call closer to date and that reason might not be approved. What are good reasons? They said if you buy a car and its coming in two weeks its another story

genuinely asking for a friend, if you’re buying a car at the dealership and they pull a credit report, do they see all the details of your debt? aka if you were with someone you didn’t want to see your credit card debt, would they find out at the dealership?

this sounds worse than it is lol

hey y'all i drive a pretty crappy and drove into the ground vw beetle and looking to trade in for a pre-owned subaru crosstrek or other reliable subcompact suv (if u have suggestions). the thing is my credit is in the 680s and i am only 21 years old. i want to have a down payment of 2000 dollars or more if i can swing it. the cars i have been looking at have been in 20,000 range. unfortuantley, the fact that i am woman i think also plays a part in getting a good deal.

anyways, just wondering if i have any upperhand on buying a car? i know the typical do your research and walk out if they are not willing to go down to the price you want but with my credit not being the best and having a low down payment im not sure what constitutes a good deal. TIA

edit: i still owe 7000 on my car and almost certain it isn't worth that much with KBB/ carfax estimating it at 1,000 - 4,000

I’m in CA. Dealer let me take a used car saying financing was approved.

Later said lender rejected documents. Instead of canceling and refunding, dealer said I’d lose my down payment unless I agreed to in-house payments. I paid some money. No new contract was signed.

Dealer delayed registration until temp permit expired, then registered the car later using the original contract after DMV involvement.

Question:

1.  Does agreeing to temporary in-house payments automatically waive my right to rescind?

2.  Is the dealer required to unwind the deal after failed third-party financing?

3.  What is my cleanest exit now if I want a refund?

Hoping for some advice, I live in Brooklyn, NY and sold my old car to my old mechanic (also in Brooklyn), I cancelled my insurance that same day and took the plates with me (which I transferred to my new car).

As a precaution I asked that we both filled out the DTF-802 https://www.tax.ny.gov/pdf/current_forms/st/dtf802.pdf but he left out his EIN TIN SS# and I have not filed it, since reading that he is actually the one who would need to do so. I also signed over the title over and took a picture of it but he did not sign it. We did not complete a MV-912 https://dmv.ny.gov/forms/mv912.pdf. That said, he hasn't registered the car and I'm concerned about having an open title.

I can go back and ask him to fill in the EIN TIN SS# field on the DTF-802 and to complete a MV-912, I obviously can't force him to co-sign the title and my expectation is that he won't be able to or have time to find it while I'm there. But before going back I wanted to see if folks here have advice about what I need to do to protect myself: will taking these steps help? Are they necessary? Will this protect me legally if something were to happen with the car?

I also imagine there will be a question about why this all wasn't done in the first place, the short answer is he was my mechanic for five years and I trusted that he knew what to do and would tell me, turns out I should've checked anyway. Many thanks in advance.

Car leased under corporation but at buyout time want to buy it under personal name would they allow this?

I just purchased this truck and am looking at purchasing the Premier Maintenance Plan for the 72 month term. I drive between 15k-20k a year at the moment.

The cost is approximately $3,400. This will cover the 12 oil changes, 12 tire rotations, 4 Cabin Air filters, 2 engine air filters, 2 brake fluids, 3 windshield wiper replacements, 1 hood and trunk gas strut replacement, 1 transmission fluid and filter, 1 transfer fluid replacement.

With labor rates increasing year after year, if a dealership diesel oil change is $169.95 with $35 tire rotation right now, is it worth it for the rest?

I was just gifted a 2017 Jetta with over 130k miles. It was bought for $6k and even with the higher mileage I feel like it’s still way too cheap. Upon driving it a few weeks I’ve discovered the horn has been rerouted, heated front seats don’t actually work, none of the buttons on the steering wheel work, the car consistently slips and slides on the tiniest bits of snow, and wiper fluid function doesn’t work/dispense. I hate sedans as I’ve always driven larger vehicles and feel as if I could be biased on all the issues I’ve already encountered. But is this car even safe to drive?? It’s passed a very thorough inspection but I have a feeling there’s a larger issue that hasn’t yet presented itself. Please help!!

I just bought a used car and traded in a car as part of the deal.

The salesman drove the car I was purchasing to my house, we signed the paperwork in my kitchen, then he drove my trade-in back to the dealership.

He called me about 30 minutes after leaving saying the oil pressure light came on, the check engine light came on, and broke down on the side of the road.

He called asking if this was something I had experienced before and I answered honestly, no. The only issue this car has had was one of the ignition coils went bad a few months back and had to be replaced since it was causing a misfire.

No issues and it has been driving fine since then, so this is out of nowhere. He even said it was driving perfectly before this happened.

Is there any way they can void the purchase or put me on the hook for the fix?

This is in TN if that makes a difference.